Help: Installing Hardiebacker on 1x8 vertical plank flooring

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Old 03-06-14, 09:21 AM
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Help: Installing Hardiebacker on 1x8 vertical plank flooring

I'm in the process of redoing my bathroom. About 1/3 of the boards were bad so we replaced them. I asked a sales person at a local store if I needed to put plywood down for a additional subfloor before putting 1/4" hardiebacker down. He said I could put it down on the plank boards. After doing this I had another issue with the floor. One of my joist were cut from the previous owner for easier plumbing access. Now that I have the hardieboard the floor is not level. I was going to get back into the crawl space and jack up the floor and put in cross joists for more support. My question is Since I have to re level the flooring (down 1/2"), I am assuming that this will crack the hardieboard and also by my discovery of this sight after the fact. I assume I will have to pull up the hardiebacker and put 1/2" plywood on top of my planks? Or can I just put floor leveler down and another layer of hardieboard? If I have to take it up, what is the easiest way of doing this?
 
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Old 03-06-14, 10:10 AM
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Hi Girl,

What is 1 x 8 vertical plank flooring?

So much for the advice you got from that clerk. Was it a tile store or a home center? Bad advice of course.

The condition of the floor needed to be assessed before work is started.

Did you spread fresh thin set mortar under the Hardie and tape the seams? If it was installed wrong, (with no thin set under the sheets), just unscrew the screws to remove it.

!/2" ply over the planks may not the thick enough, depending on the condition of the planks.

Jaz
 
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Old 03-06-14, 01:02 PM
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Hi there JazMan,

I probably have the terminology incorrect. It is basically 1x8 boards with a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap running at a 45 degree angle from the walls of the bathroom. I did put morter under the boards left a 1/8 gap between them and offsetted them so that 4 corners don't line up. Then I used the mesh tape required and morter for the seams. So I did that correctly. However, I do not hear any noise when you walk on the boards but I still have to repair the leveling issue of the floor at the tub area. I failed to realize hoe uneven it was. This is probably because I was checking the level of the floor on the 1x8 boards. It was a bit unlevel then but not by much so when i put the hardybacker down it really showed up.

the advise was from the 'flooring expert' at a well known home improvement store.

Here is a pic before and after installing the hardiebacker.
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Old 03-06-14, 01:24 PM
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Total do over I'm afraid.
#1, That toilet flange and tail piece should have been cut off and removed before the floor went in.
The flange needed to be screwed down to the finished floor not just floating like that.
The best way would have been to completely get rid of all those old 1X's and pulled a string and checked with a level to see how flat the floor was.
The second best way would have been to add screws not nails between the old nails, then go over that with Advantech T & G subflooring.
Then a layer of 1/4 cement board set in a bed of thin set spread out with a 1/2 toothed trowel.
Any old house is never going to have a flat floor, there's going to be under sized over spanned floor joist so more often then not the joist need to be sistered or the floor will flex and the tile and grout will just crack.
A box store is the last place to be getting DIY advice.
 
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Old 03-06-14, 02:05 PM
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I think the last choice I would have used for flooring would have been 1x8 white wood. I think that they use that wood when they are doing karate demonstrations and need a board to break easily.

The joists look way undersized and possibly 2x6's. The diagonal planks were not enough to support a tile floor on their own. The Hardi does not add any strength to the floor. I agree with Joe on the addition of 3/4" advantech on top of the planks and then the cement boards. However, would probably have started from scratch and beefed up the joists first.
 
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Old 03-06-14, 02:39 PM
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OhioGirl,

Well, I don't know what else to tell you. That floor has many faults, it should all be ripped out, but I'm not sure if you're up for it. If you wanna do the work right, take a deep breath and start over.

Originally Posted by OhioGirl
the advise was from the 'flooring expert' at a well known home improvement store.
If it's one of the 3 well known vest-wearing stores I'm thinking of, I have bad news for you. There are no experts there. Just nice people trying to figure out which type of "expert" they're supposed to be each day.

Let's start with the size of those joists, are they 2 x 6? They sure look like it from here.

Jaz
 
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Old 03-07-14, 07:28 AM
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JazMan,

Yep, I was thinking about starting over tonight. I went and got a screw jack to place under the joist that was cut (not by me..ugh). Yes they are 2x6 joist. I was planning on placing the jack about 1-2 ft from the opening of the plumbing (will be located under tub). The picture below shows what I found after removing the old cast iron tub. (Note to self ...you need more than 2 teenagers to help with moving that thing out of the house...lol). Then I was going to place cross beams in between the joist maybe 2 or 3 beams over from the hole. I was going to use the framing metal brackets the the new board will rest in place of the hanger and screwed into the joist (once I have the floor jacked up level). Does this sound correct? Then also correctly box in the plumbing access.
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Old 03-07-14, 07:52 AM
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Joecaption1

The toilet flange was screwed into the 1x8 board. And I was going to put a spacer in so that it will be level with the floor. So, I should cut it off instead and then once I get the hardiebacker removed and a new subflooring in place then the hardiebacker then put in a new toilet flange in and screw this to the hardiebacker? or does it go on top of the tile?

Oh and I found where they sell the 'Advantech T & G subflooring'. It wasn't at the 'blue vested home improvement store' that I have been going too. So I will get that and put over the 1x8's. Do you think the 1x8 wood that we put down is okay to use IF I get the Advantech subfloor down?
 
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