Hi guys,

I'm replacing some cracked ceramic tiles, and the builder, in all of their wisdom, decided to just slather the floor in concrete then place the tiles on top. Because why use proper tiling mortar, right?



See that metal bracket between the tiles and the hardwood floor? Is it going to give me any problems when I lay down the new tiling mortar? I'm using this Megalite stuff.. I'm just wondering if the metal's odd shape will interfere with the curing process. I don't want to remove/replace the entire metal bracket because there are still some perfectly-good tiles on top of the non-exposed part, and I really don't want to have to smash through more tiles than I have already.

 

The metal edge is there to protect the edge of the tile against hits and bumps that may cause it to chip. It is regularly used and should not pose a problem. Simply make sure the trowel you use puts enough mortar on the tile to bridge the gap made by the thickness of the metal.

 

Gotcha. Thanks czizzi. Just a follow-up question. That metal edge is getting more and more damaged throughout this tile removal process. Is it okay to re-use, assume that the whole darn thing doesn't break in half? See below for an example of that additional damage:

 

If the metal is bent and no longer straight, you will have to replace it. I looks bent from the updated photo. They are a regularly stocked item at the big box stores and are produced by the Schluter company. They are designated as A80, A100 or A??? the larger the number the thicker the strip is depending on the thickness of the tile you are using. Either chrome or brushed nickle. Measure how thick your current one is to match the correct height. Have all your tile pre-cut and ready to install. Mark the exact location of the strip in pencil with a ruler on the floor. Spread a thick layer of thinset on the floor from the line back toward the tile area and using a stiff putty knife, push the tile edge into the thinset so that excess oozes up through the holes in the strip and the metal bottoms out on the floor. Remove excess mortar or finish troweling out your thinset for your repair and immediately set your new tiles in place. Adjust as needed. I usually use a 1/8" tile spacer wedge to position the strip to be a uniform distance from the tile.

 

Ugh... I suspected that I'd have to replace it. Thanks for confirming that.

 

A follow-up question about the new tile edge.



Do I need to add grout to the part where the tile meets the tile edge (the dotted red area)? It's a really tight space, and I had some trouble getting the grout in there on my first attempt. I'm just wondering if I should mix a new batch of grout and cram it in there. Oh, and that area will be covered with T-moulding.

 

Looks like you area little tight on the space. Filling with grout is the correct way to tie the strip into the tile. Fortunately, you have molding covering, but you want a solid build for the strip to properly protect the tile edges.