Correct caulking for bathroom?

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  #1  
Old 12-18-14, 04:11 PM
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Correct caulking for bathroom?

First time home buyer and general newby here.

I have some pictures below. I've been reading up some about where to caulk as opposed to grout. I have some tile that connects to tile backsplash, tile that connects to wood, and tile that connects to the tub. So what I read is that all of these connections would be caulking. How would you address these areas? Any tricks? Do I just cut out the old caulk with razor? Do I have to clean it any how before new caulk? What brand, type of caulk should I get? Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 12-18-14, 05:35 PM
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Yes, remove the old caulking. I like the DAP brand. It's about 3x the price of GE caulking but it's worth it to me.
 
  #3  
Old 12-18-14, 05:41 PM
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You would use a combination of putty knife, finger, and alcohol to get the old caulk off.

Use a mold/mildew resistant silicone caulk.
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:11 AM
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Get a caulking that matches the grout color for your tile. Unless you want white or almond that is. I can not tell exactly what color grout you have. A tile store will most likely carry in stock a virtual rainbow of colored caulking to match what ever you have in your bathroom. The box stores are usually limited to only select popular colors.

Based on the cracking you are experiencing, you probably only have grout currently that is cracked out. Digging out old grout can be a chore. If what you have is hard as a rock, you can go over it with the flexible caulking and save yourself some headaches. Remove any grout that is loose first.
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:13 AM
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..... and make sure it's good and dry before you apply the caulk! alcohol will evaporate fairly fast but if you use soap and water, that will take awhile. A hair dryer can speed up the drying. Definitely use a mold/mildew resistant silicone caulk.
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:23 AM
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When you go to re-caulk cut the end of the tube to allow only a very small hole and being slow and careful squeeze only enough caulk to fill the joint and then DON'T TOUCH IT! The common method of cutting a big hole, squeezing out gobs of caulk and then smoothing it with your finger makes a horrible mess. If you are careful and take your time with the small hole it will look much better and be an easier job to boot.


Trust me, BTDT.
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:30 AM
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I only use phenoseal....

You can get any color you want by special order...


Phenoseal Products
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:48 AM
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the common method of cutting a big hole, squeezing out gobs of caulk and then smoothing it with your finger makes a horrible mess
The tip on the caulk tube should never be cut larger than needed AND the neater the caulk is applied the better/easier the job will be. It's usually best to run your finger tip over the caulk to help press it into the substrate [the caulk job will last longer that way] With latex caulk I like to have a wet/damp sponge handy to smooth the caulk and remove any excess when needed. With silicone you'd use paint thinner, you just need the rag damp with thinner to remove any access - it also helps keeps your fingers clean
 
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Old 12-19-14, 03:59 AM
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Whatever works for a person is probably best for that person.

I find that cutting the nozzle square and holding it against the surface while squeezing works best for me to get the material into the joint and leaving a good finish without additional tooling. For a beginner it is worth a try.
 
  #10  
Old 12-19-14, 06:54 AM
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Thanks for all the replies! I appreciate it. I will definitely let it dry. I plan to remove and clean one day and the next day do the caulking.
 
  #11  
Old 12-19-14, 07:06 AM
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Should I use silicone or latex?
 
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Old 12-19-14, 07:10 AM
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Latex would be ok except for along the tub so I'd use silicone for it all ... just make sure it's mildew resistant.
 
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Old 12-19-14, 04:31 PM
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As a plumber I suggested phenoseal as the link in post 7...

I been using 30 years...

Others may suggest other products but are they plumbers?? No offense gents!!!! Maybe they never used phenoseal...
 
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Old 12-20-14, 04:14 AM
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Phenoseal is an Adhesive Caulk/Sealant - I also use almost exclusively an adhesive type caulk, but I use a different brand - DAP. Same animal, different package.

DAP 5.5 oz. Kwik Seal Kitchen and Bath Adhesive Caulk-18861 - The Home Depot

This is for the most versatile installations where white or clear or almond is called for. In bathroom tile situations where the grout is not white or these colors, I defer to the grout manufacturers color matching caulking for a smooth seamless installation. Brown grout with white corners and seal at the tub doesn't always work.
 
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Old 12-20-14, 04:20 AM
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Maybe they never used phenoseal...
I've used it and agree they have a good line of caulking but they aren't always as easy to find as some of the other caulks.
 
  #16  
Old 12-20-14, 05:51 AM
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I'm pretty sure Phenoseal has been regularly stocked in my area Home Depots for over 10 years.
 
  #17  
Old 12-20-14, 12:59 PM
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Thanks lawrosa. It's nice to hear from a plumber. They have phenoseal at my local big box store. It says it is vinyl whereas in posts above people had said to get silicone. Is there a difference between vinyl and silicone? Am I good with using the vinyl on tub to tile, tile to tile, tile to wood? Also want to use it on my vanity top where it connects to the vanity backsplash. It's a molded plastic top? Not granite or tile.


This correct? Phenoseal Does It All 10 oz. White Vinyl Adhesive Caulk-00522 - The Home Depot
 
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Old 12-20-14, 01:41 PM
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Yes read here ..........................

http://phenoseal.com/docs/tdb/00061014006.pdf
 
  #19  
Old 12-20-14, 02:26 PM
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Thanks! I will go with that then.
 
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Old 12-20-14, 03:41 PM
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After you apply your best bet is to fill sink with water and use a sponge to clean up after you use your finger to spread...

Like here he uses a wet rag. After one wipe you need to clean rag or use new part of rag...

Use a wet finger to spread the bead too..

This vid towards end shows the wet rag. He uses knife to get the corner....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WX52Q_lfQQg
 
  #21  
Old 12-21-14, 01:07 PM
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Thanks lawrosa. It is looking like grout was used. It's hard as a rock. Is it okay to use phenoseal over existing grout to seal up the big cracks in the pictures above? Should I totally cover the grout with it, or just the crack?
 
  #22  
Old 12-22-14, 03:23 AM
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You can caulk over grout but it's best to remove as much grout as you can in the crack so the caulking both looks better and has more area to bond to.
 
  #23  
Old 12-22-14, 12:12 PM
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What would be the best way to remove the grout?
 
  #24  
Old 12-22-14, 02:35 PM
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A grout file works best but you can also scrape it out with the edge of a putty knife or screwdriver.
 
  #25  
Old 12-22-14, 04:17 PM
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Should I worry about the size of the gap? If you look at the first picture, I think if I remove the grout it's going to be a rather wide gap to fill with the phenoseal adhesive caulk. Also the tub looks like it would have a wide space when the grout is taken out.
 
  #26  
Old 12-22-14, 05:19 PM
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If it is grout and is well adhered, simply remove that which is loose and return with your caulking to fill any void and to bridge that void to connect to the surrounding grout. You need not dig out 100% of the grout. In fact, in a new shower, I will use grout as a filler on large gaps so that I don't have to use an excessive amount of caulking.

Clean what you can, use masking tape to define you caulk line (top and bottom) and smear it in. Remove the tape and you have perfect caulk lines. Don't over think this - just caulking over the crack will give you more protection than you have now. OK to use - Phenosel, Dap, color matching caulk in the grout dept.

Only thing not mentioned, is that if the caulking goes against a painted surface, it needs to be paintable caulk. Minor note, but major headache if you don't plan appropriate.
 
  #27  
Old 12-23-14, 04:27 AM
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Thanks! You all are very helpful!
 
  #28  
Old 12-31-14, 04:14 PM
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So I caulked all those areas today. Thanks for all the help. New issue I hadn't noticed was between tiles. I have this in about three locations, just small spots like this. It looks like the grout just up and disappeared. Can I use the same phenoseal here between tiles? Or what would I do with this spot? It feels like grout rather then caulk like the phenoseal so I wasn't sure if I could use phenoseal.

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  #29  
Old 12-31-14, 04:25 PM
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You should repair with grout, but if the caulk that you have matches the grout, then it is OK to fill in this one. I would not fill in if additional and lots of area suddenly void. If lots of areas are loose, you need to re-grout.
 
  #30  
Old 01-01-15, 07:25 AM
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Thanks for the reply!

1. What causes this?

2. Can I just regrout these areas? There are just three of them. Or do I have to remove any grout in the process?

3. I just caulked for the first time and am nervous about grouting. Can you walk me through some tips, tricks, etc. to grout correct?


Is it really this easy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xW4OBUeCjxQ
 
  #31  
Old 01-01-15, 09:06 AM
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Caulking is flexible, grout is not so any movement with the wall/tile can cause the grout to fail. That is the main reason that we use caulk at the corners and where the tile meets the tub. Grouting is easy, probably the hardest part is making sure you remove all the grout haze from the tile. Personally I'd just caulk those few areas rather than having to buy and mix up the grout.
 
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