Tiling to top of carpeted stairs -- Where can I end the tile?
#1
02-11-15, 11:45 AM
Tiling to top of carpeted stairs -- Where can I end the tile?
I'm prepping to lay down 12x12 ceramic tile. I'll be tiling to the top of a staircase that will eventually be carpeted.
Is there a standard stopping point for cases like this? Half way between the door jambs? Right up to the bullnose using some sort of strip?
Here's a pic of the area in question:
Is there a standard stopping point for cases like this? Half way between the door jambs? Right up to the bullnose using some sort of strip?
Here's a pic of the area in question:
#2
02-11-15, 12:42 PM
Member
Replace the pine stair nosing at the top with a finished piece of oak nosing that is stained to compliment your tile. Butt up against the new nosing a A100 Schluter transition strip and run your tile up to that. Should make for a nice transition. You may have to make adjustments for height differentials with the tile and nosing.
Another option is to use the same Schluter strip to end the tile and then have the carpet installers tuck the carpet at the strip and then transition to carpet. However, at the top of a stairs, the two different surfaces - one soft and one hard - may cause a trip hazard. I would prefer to see both surfaces hard.
Another option is to use the same Schluter strip to end the tile and then have the carpet installers tuck the carpet at the strip and then transition to carpet. However, at the top of a stairs, the two different surfaces - one soft and one hard - may cause a trip hazard. I would prefer to see both surfaces hard.
#3
02-11-15, 12:50 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Sure that floor is going to support tile?
Your missing a landing tread at the top of the stairs, the thin set and 1/4" tile board.
It's best to under cut the jamb, casing, door stop moulding and slide the landing tread in under it.
Your missing a landing tread at the top of the stairs, the thin set and 1/4" tile board.
It's best to under cut the jamb, casing, door stop moulding and slide the landing tread in under it.
#4
02-11-15, 01:21 PM
Thanks, guys.
I'm in the middle of cutting the backerboard right now, so no worries on the backer & mortar front.
I was hoping I'd be able to tile right up to the edge, or as close as I practically can, by installing some sort of bullnose transition strip and then having the carpet start right under the lip of the bullnose. Do they even make bullnose transition strips like that???
I'm in the middle of cutting the backerboard right now, so no worries on the backer & mortar front.
I was hoping I'd be able to tile right up to the edge, or as close as I practically can, by installing some sort of bullnose transition strip and then having the carpet start right under the lip of the bullnose. Do they even make bullnose transition strips like that???
#6
02-11-15, 04:43 PM
Beekrock,
Remove that hardwood nosing, it brings the flooring out too much making the first step's depth narrower. Plus it'l make the proper nosing I'm gonna suggest unstable cuz that wood nosing is rounded. Fill the spot with the OSB underlayment to make it flat with the rest of the floor and ends flush with the subfloor.
Install your concrete backer ending to the edge of the floor (subfloor) making a clean 90. Thinset and nail (roofing) a Schluter step nosing, (Rondec) of the proper thickness to match the tiles. rondec-step-for-stairs - Schluter-Systems Alternatively you could use a stained hardwood nosing, but that one has to go and the floor raised first.
Never mix carpet and hard flooring in a spot like that. Falling down 13 steps can hurt.
Can you tell us what you have as the subfloor and how thick that OSB is? How old is the house, where is it and tell us about the framing/joists.
Jaz
Remove that hardwood nosing, it brings the flooring out too much making the first step's depth narrower. Plus it'l make the proper nosing I'm gonna suggest unstable cuz that wood nosing is rounded. Fill the spot with the OSB underlayment to make it flat with the rest of the floor and ends flush with the subfloor.
Install your concrete backer ending to the edge of the floor (subfloor) making a clean 90. Thinset and nail (roofing) a Schluter step nosing, (Rondec) of the proper thickness to match the tiles. rondec-step-for-stairs - Schluter-Systems Alternatively you could use a stained hardwood nosing, but that one has to go and the floor raised first.
Never mix carpet and hard flooring in a spot like that. Falling down 13 steps can hurt.
Can you tell us what you have as the subfloor and how thick that OSB is? How old is the house, where is it and tell us about the framing/joists.
Jaz
