Remove vinyl and underlayment before installing tile?

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  #41  
Old 06-01-15, 04:22 PM
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OK good, I always used a wider putty knife and didn't look right from here.

Jaz
 
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  #42  
Old 06-02-15, 10:25 AM
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I have been measuring and laying out the tile today to try to find the best lines to lay the tile. I really don't have a true center with all the angles of the bathroom. I tried going off the center of the double vanities, but the door thresholds were going to have little slivers of tile in places. So i worked off the left wall (this helps me keep a straight line as well) and everything seems to line up good everywhere. I am going to use 3/16 spacers on the 16 inch tiles. Any tips or advice on my plans? Thanks!
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  #43  
Old 06-02-15, 01:56 PM
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It is gonna be a tough one without physically being there to make measure. But my take would be to do the following.

-shift toward the left to close the gap on the corner to the closet.
-this will cause a notch cut on the corner right of the closet but that is OK
-it will open up the "L" cut at the divider wall on the right, that will be a stronger cut as a result
-What I can not guage is the way everything hits the tub area as it will be very visible in the scheme of things.

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Still time to remove the baseboard to give you a little more leeway on the critical cuts along the walls.
 
  #44  
Old 06-02-15, 06:37 PM
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Here is a video of the the entire layout. There is also a linen closet and toilet room to deal with
https://youtu.be/IMaywzQxTo8
 
  #45  
Old 06-02-15, 07:28 PM
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Trying to figure out how I will start tiling, I was thinking about laying all the full tiles one day. Then, cut all the rest of the pieces, and install all the pieces at once a day or two later. Just worried about keeping everything straight, and also I know it will take me a long time for cuts without mortar drying out.
 
  #46  
Old 06-02-15, 08:35 PM
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OK, new information.....Critical spot is in the toilet room. Need to bisect the toilet flange with a grout line and probably hit at least one edge of the floor register. Tough to cut holes in the middle of tile unless you have some specialty tools and enough meat on the tile to prevent a stress crack down the road.

Only one heat register in the whole bathroom? ...strange.
 
  #47  
Old 06-03-15, 07:54 AM
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I think my tile saw will handle the register, and I have a diamond hole saw for the water supply. The toilet flange is hard for me to figure out. Looking at your picture, I may pull the tile back towards the entry way 2 inches to give the flange a bisect. Been over and over this issue this morning, trying to make sure I plan it out taking into account all the small cuts. Thanks for your help!
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  #48  
Old 06-03-15, 12:55 PM
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I ended up staying with my original layout. Every time I moved the layout one way or the other, it would mess up another spot. So I just put all of the full tiles down as planned. I am really worried about one tile with a backerboard seam of the middle of it, it really didn't want to lay flat with lippage. It kept rocking back and worth as I tried to level it. Laying the tile wasn't too difficult, but the slight lippage in a few spots had me stressed. The spacers helped keep all the lines straight and square.
 
  #49  
Old 06-04-15, 11:46 AM
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Starting to figure it out and work my way around the edges ...
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  #50  
Old 06-04-15, 12:37 PM
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Thanks for the updates, I'm curious to see what you will be facing in the toilet room so we can pre-plan. How are the angled cuts coming along? Is a 45 degree cut working? Let me know if you need guidance with those cuts as well. If 45, then use a speed square on the fence of your table saw to maintain the angle and give you a true 45 during the cut.

Back butter the edge pieces and drag the trowel across from inside to out to prevent a mess with thinset over everything. I sometimes will batter a thin amount on the cement board as well to ensure good adhesion just prior to placing it down.
 
  #51  
Old 06-05-15, 07:37 PM
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Still slowly making my way around the edges, I am getting better making cuts under the door jams. The speed square will help me around the 45' tub cuts, I also got a rotozip with a dry diamond wheel from a friend to cut the circle for the toilet. Can't wait to finish, this new floor is going to look great!

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  #52  
Old 06-06-15, 04:40 AM
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If you have not figured it out yet, you will wish you had not set that one tile next to the speed square in the pic above. That piece near the door will be a bear to get in. Don't be afraid to sacrifice a full tile and take one out to gain better access to a difficult cut/tricky install. It is part of the learning curve. Other than that, look real good keep up the excellent work.
 
  #53  
Old 06-06-15, 05:03 PM
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I cut in the 45' tub pieces today, all I have left is the toilet room. You were right about the next piece, it is going to be a pain. Hoping I can cut the door jamb a little high a squeeze it in ... we will see
Thanks again for the advice ...
 
  #54  
Old 06-08-15, 09:46 AM
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Just finished making all the cuts in the toilet room. The little diamond hole drill worked perfectly and I cut the toilet hole in one try with the rotozip diamond blade. I feel like I have gotten a good feel about how to do everything after a little trial and error after making a few mistakes. I probably had about 5 tiles break on me trying to make cuts for door jams and around the air vent. I really can't believe how good it is turning out, I was sure worried about trying to do this project myself. Thanks again!
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  #55  
Old 06-08-15, 04:18 PM
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Would you be willing to apprentice as my assistant - I'm hard pressed to fine this level of skill in anyone I have worked with or employed. Which is why it is easier to work by myself....

Very nice work!
 
  #56  
Old 06-10-15, 01:57 PM
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A storm knocked the power out for 3 hours just as I started laying the edge tiles. The difficult piece wouldn't slide under the door and I couldn't use my power saw to cut so the piece so it broke as I was setting it. I kept going in the dark and finished laying all the edge tiles. I cut it out and replaced it the next morning. I just finished the grout and I have cleaned off the tiles so I just need to clean it up good and paint/re-installed the trim and I will be done! Thanks for the advice! Just taking my time and trying to get everything right has helped, glad I am not in a rush or under a deadline. This job takes time for a rookie
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  #57  
Old 06-10-15, 02:54 PM
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Don't forget to seal everything. Let it dry 72 hrs and return to seal the grout. Won't take but a couple of minutes of your time, but you will be glad you did. Also, along the tub and shower should have caulking to match the color of the grout and not just grout in that area. If just grout, it will crack out in short order.
 
  #58  
Old 06-16-15, 09:26 AM
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All finished, got all the trim painted and re-installed. Also sealed the tile and grout. It really turned out better than I thought I could do. Thanks for all the advice, now on to the kitchen
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  #59  
Old 06-18-15, 10:57 AM
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Kitchen has been much easier, it is a big open area compared to that bathroom. The vinyl isn't glued down either so I can see the underlayment boards and pry them up easier.

One question - how should I tile with this stove plug? It is flush with the current floor ...
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  #60  
Old 06-18-15, 12:55 PM
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Shut the main breaker off and take the cover off the outlet ( one screw in middle). Then unbolt it from the wall to see if there is some play to raise it. You may have to destroy the base molding to allow clearance. Just make sure to put the cover back on before flipping the power back on. Playing with 220 v is not a game.
 
  #61  
Old 06-19-15, 12:54 PM
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Thanks! The base board has lots of play in it, It moved up almost a half inch when I was prying up the underlayment. I don't mess around with those plugs, I got a jolt just plugging up a stove once before. I will definitely turn the power off when I take the cover off.
 
  #62  
Old 07-01-15, 06:42 PM
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Kitchen coming along ...

Been putting in a lot of work on the kitchen/laundry/half bath/dining room area. My master bath was about 80 sq ft while this area is 421 sq ft. Took forever to get old vinyl and underlayment (darn staples) up and then install all the cement board. Got most of the full tiles down and starting to cut the edge pieces. I layed out the center row of tile and then worked out from there. All of the lines are straight and square. I have learned a lot, I feel like an old pro now
The only issue I am worried about is tiling up to 2 sets of carpeted stairs. I think I will lift of the carpet and tack it while I install the tile. Then trim and staple it back down when finished.
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  #63  
Old 07-01-15, 06:48 PM
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I just layed all the tile under the frig and stove today. When can I put them back into place so I can tile their current positions? I put the stove in the laundry room and pulled the frig out for now. I heard to wait about 3 days after the grout but will it hurt to move them back tomorrow while I finish out the rest of the thinnest and edge cuts. I probably won't grout for another week, lots of cutting to do. My wife doesn't like her kitchen unplugged during this project
 
  #64  
Old 07-02-15, 05:00 AM
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Move your appliances on big pieces of cardboard or other semi-rigid or rigid material (1/4" ply). The concern is that the wheels will crack the edge of the tile as it bounces over the grout lines. The 72 hour wait is between grouting and sealing. The back of the thinset package will tell you the wait time on the mortar.
 
  #65  
Old 07-02-15, 04:05 PM
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Put some cardboard down and everything went smooth, thanks. My wet saw was cutting super slow so I researched blades (getting a new one/something called reconditioning). I ran it through some old mortar rocks and the thing cuts about 10x faster now. It is as good as new! I didn't realize how bad it had gotten, this will speed it up a lot.
 
  #66  
Old 07-15-15, 10:12 AM
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All finished!

Kitchen floor took forever but it is all finished, it turned out better than I ever dreamed. It looks fantastic. We bought this home as a foreclosure 1 year ago and the kitchen looks much better. I refinished cabinet doors, painted walls & trim, added wainscoting backsplash, new granite countertops, and new tile. Saving tons of $$$ doing it DIY, and this site and all the advice was the reason it could do it myself. Thanks!

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  #67  
Old 07-15-15, 10:16 AM
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  #68  
Old 07-15-15, 01:19 PM
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Very nice, thanks for sharing. You did an excellent job and should be very proud.
 
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