Hardwood floor molding

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-26-15, 05:39 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,910
Received 226 Votes on 201 Posts
Hardwood floor molding

Friend of mine just laid down hard wood flooring in his family room. All worked out very well. However the fireplace has a raised floor base with a scalloped vertical surface. How would you cover the 1/4" space that borders that area? Caulk was ruled out because he wants the space to be free for expansion as directed by the manufacture. Typical molding will show spaces at the top.

Name:  20150525_165131[1].jpg
Views: 458
Size:  30.0 KB

Name:  20150525_165140[1].jpg
Views: 401
Size:  28.0 KB
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-26-15, 05:49 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 5 Votes on 5 Posts
It may be cut too close for expansion as it is, so adding an elastomeric caulk would not prevent movement. It expands and contracts. Hopefully there is enough expansion room on the opposite wall.
 
  #3  
Old 05-26-15, 05:51 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 14 Votes on 12 Posts
For a custom fit, you would sculpt a scribed line that follows the shape of the stone. I have done several mantels on stone fireplaces like this. You basically have to build your unit twice. Once in a soft wood like pine and then transfer the pattern to a harder wood like oak stained to match the flooring. You take a compass and scribe the line onto your soft wood. Cut it out with a jig saw set on a 45 degree back bevel so that the point of the wood to be shaped is as thin as possible. I then use a dremel with a small rotary sanding drum on it to fine tune the shape. Test fit it, make adjustments, and reshape until it matches. Then transfer the pattern onto poster stock by turning it upside down and tracing the profile. Remove the poster stock and flip it over and trace it onto the final wood stock. Follow procedures again with jig saw, back bevel, shape and repeat.

Stain and poly to finish. If you use square 3/4" stock you can follow up with shoe molding to further dress out.

Alternately, see how a stretch of glass bead looks as a way to simply dress up the cut edge of the flooring, leave the gaps and call it a day.
 
  #4  
Old 05-26-15, 06:19 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,910
Received 226 Votes on 201 Posts
Thanks guys. I passed along your replies for his consideration. Since it's already down I doubt he will do the transfer as Czizzi suggested. Chandler, it may not show but the gap is about a good 1/4 from stone. A grey concrete caulk was suggested in our conversation, but we don't know how well that will wear or if it will hamper the expansion process.

Here's hoping others might offer more suggestions.
 
  #5  
Old 05-26-15, 06:25 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 5 Votes on 5 Posts
The gray elastomeric caulk will expand and contract, and would blend better with the mortar. Just make a good wipe on the laminate so it doesn't look smeared on.
 
  #6  
Old 05-26-15, 06:38 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 14 Votes on 12 Posts
Since it's already down I doubt he will do the transfer as Czizzi suggested
Norm - my suggestion was for a custom shaped piece of molding. The floor is obviously already down. True carpentry skills to shape a piece of wood to perfectly match the contour of the stone and hide your expansion gap.
 
  #7  
Old 05-26-15, 07:05 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,910
Received 226 Votes on 201 Posts
Hmmm...OK, understood.____________________________
 
  #8  
Old 05-26-15, 11:34 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 5 Votes on 5 Posts
Hindsight being 20/20, i would have ground a 1/2" groove, 1/2" deep around the fireplace rock with a grinder and slid the flooring just under it so it still could float, but not be noticeable.
 
  #9  
Old 05-26-15, 05:47 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 25,841
Received 642 Votes on 594 Posts
Hindsight being 20/20, i would have ground a 1/2" groove, 1/2" deep around the fireplace rock with a grinder and slid the flooring just under it so it still could float, but not be noticeable.
Yep, just what I was thinking- then a very fine bead of floor colored caulk (if needed) would have hidden the shadow line where the two meet. Probably not something any floor guy would do though. It could still be done if you didn't mind adding an additional moulding around the perimeter... nail moulding to floor and cut the slot deep enough that it could all still expand. But it would be harder to grind now, and not scratch the floor while still keeping that trim moulding thin.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: