Suggestions for baseboard install
#1
Suggestions for baseboard install
Hi all,
Getting ready to install some baseboards after I finish up tiling and grouting. The baseboards don't lay perfectly flat over the tile though. Wondering if it's acceptable to caulk the bottom of the baseboards to fill this gap or if I should try to trim/sand/edge the bottom of the baseboards to make them fit more seamlessly.
Welcome suggestions. I tried to upload a photo but the site wouldn't let me (standard JPG can try it again later).
Thanks!
Getting ready to install some baseboards after I finish up tiling and grouting. The baseboards don't lay perfectly flat over the tile though. Wondering if it's acceptable to caulk the bottom of the baseboards to fill this gap or if I should try to trim/sand/edge the bottom of the baseboards to make them fit more seamlessly.
Welcome suggestions. I tried to upload a photo but the site wouldn't let me (standard JPG can try it again later).
Thanks!
#2
Follow this.............................. How-to-insert-pictures.
I was thinking baseboard heat. You're asking about baseboard molding... correct ?
Getting ready to install some baseboards
#4
Sorry.... we can't see that link. I can see part of the address but not the domain name.
If it's a domain not allowed here it will be hidden from view.
Post the actual link with spaces so it doesn't get truncated.
If it's a domain not allowed here it will be hidden from view.
Post the actual link with spaces so it doesn't get truncated.
#6
Forum Topic Moderator
A long time ago I used to caulk the bottom of base/shoe to the floor but left unpainted it will show dirt in no time. I'd either leave it as is or install shoe mold. Shoe mold is a little more flexible and can be pressed down where it needs to be. There still may be a slight gap.
#7
I would mask the tile off with painters tape, then mask the baseboard about 1/8" up from the bottom edge (to keep it clean) and then caulk it with a latex caulk that has mildewicide. Tool it with a wet finger as tight as you can. Then in the areas that have a gap you will likely need to let it dry for a day and come back and caulk it again, because the first coat will shrink back and leave an indentation. Then after you fill/spackle your nails give it all a couple coats of trim enamel.
#8
Member
If this is an area that's not likely to get wet, you could also scribe it to the floor just like you would scribe a countertop to a wall and sand it. But if it's in a wet area like a bathroom, I would definitely lift it a bit and caulk.
#9
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
I'm not a fan of shoe molding and would prefer not to go that route.
Sounds like caulking or scribing to the floor are the best options.
For the caulking:
Will it still allow sufficient movement in the tile field? I don't want to cause a potential issue with tiles becoming hollow or cracking because I've caulked them to the baseboard?
Any specific caulk you can recommend? Also why not silicone caulk as it's more flexible?
For the scribing:
What tools and processes will I need for this? Any videos, articles, etc. you can share.
Thanks!
I'm not a fan of shoe molding and would prefer not to go that route.
Sounds like caulking or scribing to the floor are the best options.
For the caulking:
Will it still allow sufficient movement in the tile field? I don't want to cause a potential issue with tiles becoming hollow or cracking because I've caulked them to the baseboard?
Any specific caulk you can recommend? Also why not silicone caulk as it's more flexible?
For the scribing:
What tools and processes will I need for this? Any videos, articles, etc. you can share.
Thanks!
#10
Forum Topic Moderator
While the tile shouldn't move, caulking is flexible and won't be an issue. Silicone caulk isn't paintable and is apt to be an issue when it comes time to repaint. I'm partial to White Lightning caulk, it's a siliconized acrylic latex which is paintable.
#12
Thanks guys.
Maybe I'm missing something but my understanding is that tile does move/shift slightly over time. It's installed over a concrete slab and settling, temperature changes, and other factors can cause it to move from what I know. This is why I understand we need movement joints throughout the tile field (https://www.ceramictilefoundation.or...who-needs-them outlines this).
Perhaps it's the flexibility of the caulk that won't be an issue here? I will look into the White Lightening Caulk. This one seems silicone and paintable too. https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-All-Proj...ulk/1000117187
Any other thoughts on the scribing approach?
Maybe I'm missing something but my understanding is that tile does move/shift slightly over time. It's installed over a concrete slab and settling, temperature changes, and other factors can cause it to move from what I know. This is why I understand we need movement joints throughout the tile field (https://www.ceramictilefoundation.or...who-needs-them outlines this).
Perhaps it's the flexibility of the caulk that won't be an issue here? I will look into the White Lightening Caulk. This one seems silicone and paintable too. https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-All-Proj...ulk/1000117187
Any other thoughts on the scribing approach?
#13
Every substance known to man expands and contracts a minute amount with changes in temperature. The point is that you have nothing to worry about because tile and concrete are the most stable building products there are. You also have no temperature swings when everything is room temperature.
And yes, you are missing something. Your floor is also not 5000 sq feet, so you likely have no expansion joints in your concrete to worry about.
And yes, you are missing something. Your floor is also not 5000 sq feet, so you likely have no expansion joints in your concrete to worry about.