Hiding Sheetrock/Hardibacker seem under tile - which compound to tape with?
#1
10-12-20, 03:36 PM
Hiding Sheetrock/Hardibacker seem under tile - which compound to tape with?
So I saw someone on here saying he usually puts his drywall/cementboard transitions under the tile. I decided to do the same thing, but how do I handle that joint with respect to taping? Do I fibatape/thinset the joint or do I use paper/compound? The tile will overhang this joint about 2.5-3".
#2
10-12-20, 03:52 PM
Group Moderator
I do not join the two. They are dissimilar materials and they are different thicknesses. I normally try to get the transition much closer to the edge of the tile so the tile is well supported by the Hardibacker. Then I use a bead of color matching caulk where the tile meets the sheetrock.
#3
10-12-20, 04:01 PM
Group Moderator
Assuming this is not in a wet location, I use the same fiberglass tape that you use with the cement board and I finish the joint just like any other butt joint with 1 coat of durabond to bed the tape, followed by a skim coat with an Easy Sand setting compound.
#4
10-12-20, 04:53 PM
XSleeper Well, it's generally not wet. It's a vertical line about 2" outside the tub. So fibatape with thinset? I can do that. My thinset isn't called durabond, it's called versabond.
@Pilot Dane - womp womp. I'm already done the joint. I mean, I've got the hardi and sheetrock butt-jointed. They're close enough in thickness for me anyhow. This is not easy stuff lol
@Pilot Dane - womp womp. I'm already done the joint. I mean, I've got the hardi and sheetrock butt-jointed. They're close enough in thickness for me anyhow. This is not easy stuff lol
#5
10-12-20, 05:21 PM
Group Moderator
I did not say use thinset. Versabond thinset is for cement board. You don't want to get it on the drywall anywhere you are going to be painting. Durabond is a setting compound for drywall that is water resistant. I am saying use the Durabond (and then Easy Sand setting compound) for that one joint. You DEFINITELY do not want to use Versabond on that joint because it is too close to the drywall and it will show.
Or do it Pilot Dane's way and don't tape it at all. But if its an exterior wall, I would not do it that way.
Or do it Pilot Dane's way and don't tape it at all. But if its an exterior wall, I would not do it that way.
#6
10-13-20, 09:26 AM
XSleeper Pilot Dane
Just to be completely clear, I've posted a picture. I don't know whether it's old age or cabin fever or what, but I'm having the hardest time grasping this. Here's a pic of the wall. The tile will extend to the yellow line.
https://i.imgur.com/DxK2ful.jpg
Just to be completely clear, I've posted a picture. I don't know whether it's old age or cabin fever or what, but I'm having the hardest time grasping this. Here's a pic of the wall. The tile will extend to the yellow line.
https://i.imgur.com/DxK2ful.jpg
#7
10-13-20, 09:47 AM
Group Moderator
At that end of the tub I would not bother with taping the Hardi to sheetrock joint. The Hardie is thinner than sheetrock so if you do tape it go as thin as you can so you don't make the elevation difference worse.
Where is the Hardi/sheetrock transition on the other end of the tub? If you have a shower is the sheetrock safely out of the wet zone of the splashing?
Where is the Hardi/sheetrock transition on the other end of the tub? If you have a shower is the sheetrock safely out of the wet zone of the splashing?
#8
10-13-20, 02:18 PM
Thanks for the reply Dane. On the other side there is no transition. That's the wall with the plumbing in it and it's just a 32" wall, 100% hardi. I appreciate all the help here. I'm a perfectionist and without sensible advice from experienced folks, I'd never finish anything.
