Stud Prep for Kerdi


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Old 12-31-21, 12:18 PM
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Stud Prep for Kerdi

Going to install Kerdi around my tub. The studs are all even and level, but this one area above the window seems to be an issue. The horizontal board in the pictures protrudes about 1/4. inch beyond the adjacent studs. This is on both sides of this board. Should I chisel away at this board to make it even with the studs? How should I address this? Thanks.
 
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Old 12-31-21, 01:35 PM
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Doesn't look like it protrudes 1/4". You would need to check the wall with a long level from bottom plate to top plate to know what the "true level" of the wall should be. If it really does stick out you could run a power planer over it. Chiseling it would not be my first choice, as that would take too long. Check the distance from the window jamb back to the stud all around the window. That matters more than anything else.
 
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Old 12-31-21, 02:03 PM
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New question. There’s no stud in the back left corner of the wall with the window. Will it be an issue if the Kerdi is attached to the closest stud to the left of the window and not on a stud in the corner? Or do I need to add a stud so the edge of the Kerdi is secured to a stud

?
 
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Old 12-31-21, 02:39 PM
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When you say "installing Kerdi" are you referring to the Kerdi board or the Kerdi membrane?
 
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Old 12-31-21, 02:40 PM
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You could slip a 2x4 vertically so that it is halfway behind the stud on the left wall and screw them together.
 
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Old 12-31-21, 04:24 PM
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Thanks. Kerdi board I’m referring to
 
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Old 01-02-22, 08:35 AM
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Is this bad? Kerdi board question

I have 3 boards coming together forming an upside down “T” seam. There’s no studs behind the area where the 3 boards meet. Is this not ok? I can recut a piece to extend to the next stud if necessary. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-02-22, 08:44 AM
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You should really keep all project posts as one, helps preserve the history of the discussion.

Kerdi board is the same as drywall, all the pieces should fall on a stud for support. That may not be an issue spot but if it could be revised it would eliminate any flex!
 
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Old 01-02-22, 11:07 AM
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Ok thanks. I removed and replaced. Another issue I see is the transition from Kerdi to drywall. The drywall is about 1/8” proud of the Kerdi. This is outside of the shower area. I’ll be installing in 3X6 subway tiles in this area.
 
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Old 01-02-22, 05:34 PM
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How do you plan on doing the edge of the tile?
If the edge is straight/plumb, you could use that as the end of your tile line, possibly with a metal edging.

I usually install the Kerdi board level with the drywall, and intentionally continue the tile onto the drywall a few inches.
 
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Old 01-02-22, 05:43 PM
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My plan was to continue the tile on that entire wall. I dont want to end the tile a few inches past the tub. That’ wall is where the toilet and vanity are. Do I remove the Kerdi on that wall and shim it out somehow? Or should I just feather thinset. Not sure what’s easier or best.
 
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Old 01-03-22, 01:38 AM
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It would be best to shim it out so the wall is flush. You might be able to put in a layer of thin set but from the pictures it looks like it would be easier to shim and not have to worry about it!
 
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Old 01-03-22, 01:59 AM
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Threads combined.
 
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Old 01-03-22, 11:23 AM
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So I plan to shim the kerdi board. I know I can wet shim with thinset, but you think I can use a premixed tile adhesive to wet shim as well? I know I can't use it on the front of the Kerdi Board, but to shim out on the stud side? I have a bucket of the stuff and I only need a little bit because it's only off about 1/8". Thanks.
 
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Old 01-03-22, 02:36 PM
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My assumption was that the studs would be shimmed out to get the Kerdi board flush. But thinking about it you could probably just add a layer of mud & Kerd, assuming you have sufficient material.
 
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Old 01-03-22, 05:09 PM
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I would suggest you just throw the premixed away. I wouldn't trust it to dry/cure behind the tile. Same reason that it doesn't dry in the pail. Solid 1/8" thick shims should have gone on the studs before the kerdi went up if you want the wall tile to be flat and not have a bump or a wave in it. Not crazy about the idea of using thinset as a shim.
 
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Old 01-04-22, 07:50 AM
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Old 01-04-22, 07:59 AM
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I had one of those, including the seal for the main valve and the diverter, none were installed prior to tile work. If I recall it's just a rubber seal that the arm passes through.

In reality as long as the threaded joint is good and the trim ring is in place there is little chance of water getting to that joint but it's not going to hurt anything.

The main valve is probably the most important, more water gets splashed on that!
 
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