Long time since I posted. I have a question for anyone who may have run into this. I started to install a horizontal stainless Moen grab bar on a tiled shower wall and found nails 16 inches apart with a strong magnet above and below the spot where the person wants the bar. I have not done this job before but read up on it. I run a piece of painters tape vertically down the two up and down nails to mark between where the mounting spot is. Since there is what I think are studs right there I drill holes with a small tile bit for the stainless screws but find when I get through the tile and whatever the tile is attached to the bit just falls through and there is a gap before I hit any wood. Maybe an inch or more. It appears the tile is not attached directly to the wall studs on both adjacent studs where the ends of the 16 inch grab bar was to be attached. Is that possible? The house was built in the 40s but I have no idea when the shower tile was put in. If I proceed and drill into the wood recessed behind the tile and screw the bar on won't it crack the tile? Is it possible to put an adhesive between the grab bar flange and then just snug up the screws and after the glue sets up that would be strong enough for safety? Got a problem here. Thanks.
The only thing I can think of is that they horizontally strapped the wall with 1X4 or something like that.
I would not mount it as it is because as you say cracking will be a problem.
Getting the screws tight will force you to push the tile wall back.
I do not think that trying to fill the area with glue will do the job.
I cannot think of a way to hold it in place till it gets hard.
Also how to keep it from cracking and falling down over time.
Need more info.
What size tiles are they?
How many screws in each end of the grab bar?
etc.?
etc.?
Two possibilities might be a glue on grab bar or drill a larger hole and use stand offs.
I did look up suction bars but they get a poor rating overall.
If there is a air gap anywhere between the tile and stud there is a good chance you'll crack the tile when you tighten the grab bar's screws. Do you have access to the wall from the back side? If so you could drill a smallish hole to to peer inside or send in a camera so you know what you're dealing with.
What Marq suggest is OK. But if anybody who is over say 220# or obese, I would not recommend it. A person who is heavy who might slip and fall and garb that bar with that type of fastener risk breaking it and/or injuring themselves.
You need to hit a solid stud.
And if you're installing this for somebody other than yourself, you could be libel for possible injury due to inadequate installation.
I completely agree with the viability of the attachment to the studs but these brackets WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY are very good.
Fastener will support 300-lb. load exceeding all building code and governmental agency guidelines, including ADA Accessibility Guidelines in the U.S.A.
And those suction cup grab bars should be banned, they are a disaster waiting to happen!
I agree with everyone who has posted. It is at the house of a family member of mine who has mobility problems. I believe the house is plaster and lathe so the wall behind the shower is that. I've got no construction or building experience so I think, for safety at least, this is above my pay grade. I'll have to recommend they hire a pro. Thanks to everyone.
Interesting problem. I've run into similar problems mounting TV's.
I carry bins full of parts and that includes spacers. Both metal and plastic.
If it comes to having to do it yourself..... you can get spacers where the screws fits the center hole. You drill a hole the outside diameter of the spacer. Put the spacer in the hole until it hits the firm support. Mark the spacer and cut it slightly longer than will fit flush. When you tighten the screw the spacer will be pushed slightly into the wood. The spacer will keep the wall from compressing and cracking the tile.
[color=#141414]I am putting in a bathroom in an area of my basement that has a concrete floor with small bumps, old epoxy and a spot where the original oil tank for the heater resided - tile would be uneven unless i put a really thick layer of thinset. Tiling the bathroom area while the remaining 200 sf will be cork with a heavy pad. So my question is should I rent a concrete grinder or use leveling cement where I'm tiling (I am also putting in a radiant floor and a curbless shower) so the floor has to be perfectly smooth in the bathroom area. A heavy pad will be enough under the cork.[/color]
[color=#141414]I have a plumber coming in @ 3 weeks to lay pipe to connect the toilet and shower to the floor drain (sink already connected) and a mason following a few days later to do the shower pan and wondering if I should do my floor prep before or after.[/color]
[color=#141414]Any tips appreciated![/color]
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Hello,
I'm wondering if there is any way to add 'schluter' to my existing shower tile that was installed approximately 10 years ago?
Basically, I had new tile installed recently at another home and learned about schluter and it looks great - it gives a much more finished look. Is there any thing I can do (maybe not schluter, but something else) that I can do to my already installed shower tile to give it a more finished look?
Thanks in advance!
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[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1200x1600/schluter4_a4bd83e8d76f5c758d8df321a5aaa767f1aa5249.jpg[/img]