My 2nd or 3rd post here and thanks to the forum for all the help.

Relevant info about bathroom:
Home built 1950's
Walls : Lathe Plaster
Shower : Not Original


Ok sometime about the 1960's the bathroom had some rennovations done. They ended up putting plastic tile on the walls ( all walls ) to include surrounding the tub.

At some point this waterproof paneling was added above the tile


Ok so I'm wanting to actually, hire out, redoing the bathroom, but just as of right now it's not in the budget. Since we've moved in we've been showering, which I'm seeing as being a flipping no no. As such in the surround area tiles are popping off. This is the 2nd time tiles have come off and now I'm going to try and reattach them. I got FRP panel to put on the walls. Here is what my walls are looking like




I know I've got mold ( black stuff ) but at the moment I've sprayed with bleach and water and I'm trying to get the walls dried out.

1. The scratch coat is flaking off in large portions
2. Along the bottom tub/wall interface the plaster is/has crumbling it's like sand at the moment still wet.
When I do the renovations, I want to remove the lathe and plaster and go 100% drywall ( I know how to repair holes and stuff in that ).

Can the above pics be repaired enough to put the new FRP paneling up to get me through a year of saving up my budget? If it can be repaired enough what does that look like. Do I get the wall dried out. Get the crumbly loose stuff out from tub/wall interface. Do I file those spots back in with new plaster / grout / cement ) Would I have to put a new scratch coat on?

I talked with the wife about maybe just gut the bathroom remove the bathtub and just put a shower surround in and just reinstall sink and wall cabinets ( just to get the walls repaired )


I just need to know what repair work I need to do on that exposed plaster wall so that I could put the FRP up.


Thank You all for your time and advice,
Regards,
B

 

In my opinion anything short of a gutting and total remodel is just a makeshift fix and not permanent.
You could let he walls dry out completely, patch any loose or soft areas and then put up a solid panel. Then caulk all the seams, corners and along the floor or tub section. t

Following copied from Internet Single Plastic Sheets For Your Bathroom Walls

This is the cheapest, most readily available and most hassle-free waterproof bathroom wall option. Single plastic sheets can be purchased at almost all hardware or interior stores. They are available in countless unique colors and are easy to install too. You will find these sheets to be extremely useful and effective in waterproofing the bathroom. Plastic sheets are available in many different prices ranges and size in the market too.

 

Yes, you could make it work for a year with FRP panels. Because of the poor condition of the walls I think the plastic corner and connector strips would be helpful.

Personally I might consider stripping the shower walls down to bare studs. Then put of moisture resistant sheetrock or cement board or Hardie Backer board. That will give you a much flatter, smoother wall that's in good condition and has no mildew. A good base will make installing FRP easier. Then when you have the budget the FRP can be pulled off and the wall board might be reusable. Of course you'll be taking a bath until you get the job done... but that could be motivation to keep you moving.

 

Well just had a guy out and he's like I'm 6 weeks out ( don't want to hear about it from others in the house for that long ) and because the walls are lathe / plaster if I attempt to strip the bathroom wall I'm more than likely to dmg the wall on the other side. SO!

As seen in some of the pictures the skim coat is coming off in areas and not in others.
1) Do I need to get all of this down to plaster and then reskim coat it?
2) What / how do I know when a portion of the plaster is just bad?
I have some areas tub / wall boundary where it's obvious and the plaster is crumbling.
Do I like, gently probe with a pointy tool till I find hard solid stuff ( i feel i could probe the whole wall and it would
all be bad ),

 

Why would you damage the wall on the opposite side? There is no reason to disturb the opposite side. You have a width of a 2x4 to give you room and you'll be pulling everything towards you, not away from you.

When the skim coating wont easily chip off, leave it. Then skim coat with plaster patch until it's all level and flat.
Then you can put up the FRP board.

When probing the old plaster use your fingers or a small blunt item and tap gently but firmly. If it crumbles, then replace. If it can take a small hit, then it's OK.

 

Norm201,

Well removing the plaster wall, to replace it with dry wall, Will require alot of tugging on the wall, which means alot of flexing of said wall. However, if I do the demolition I could take my time and be gentler about it.

Thank you for the information about probing the plaster base. Can I impose on you for more information.


Link 4 Home Depot
1. What product would be good for repairing the skim coat portions.
2. What product would be good for repairing the damaged plaster portions.
3. Right now, at the moment, I'm not seeing the lathe that's behind the plaster. Will any patches adhere to the old plaster?

Most of my walls are in great shape so I think a powder that I mix would be best. Also if that bag is small also best.


Still watching other youtube videos on repairing lathe/plaster walls.

• 1. Would I tape over the patch??
  • I'm thinking not as it's not a long running crack.
• Is the difference of the 20,90,5 versions of this product
  • https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Shee...4210/100321610
  • Is the only difference in working time?
  • If I buy a 18lb bag what is the best way to store it? I live in Iowa and it does get humid here, well humid for me, 50-70% is about normal. Should I buy a bucket and lid to store it in?
    

Again thanks to all for stopping in and passing along your trade knowledge,
Regards,
B

 

Ok I'm looking at this video YouTube video for plaster repair.

This is going to be behind FRP panel, do I need to apply new skim coat? If I need new skim coat do I need to do as demonstrated at 9:34 of the video?

 

With all those questions I'd feel a lot more comfortable if someone like Marksr would answer those. He is a lot more experienced in those areas than I.
Mark?

But, without looking at those videos, I would not use tape over the cracks. Use a typical plaster patch compound, not joint compound.
Ready mix is convenient. After each use, a plastic wrap (Saran wrap) over the top of what's left will keep it fresh and prevent caking for a long period of time.

If Marksr doesn't answer in a reasonable time drop him a message and refer him to this post.

 

Well just as a review for anybody who comes to the party.

Will be picking this stuff, or maybe the 18 lb bag, of this stuff (HOMEDEPOT) to patch the large voids.

At this time won't be picking up a product for skim coat ( cause I don't know if I need it or would I just mix this stuff a bit thinner )

Regards,
B

 

I would recommend 45 min setting compound. 5 min will set up way too fast.