ceramic tiles


  #1  
Old 10-31-01, 12:36 PM
turracem
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I am planning on tiling a doorway with ceramic tiles. The current flooring is 12in x 12in self adhesive tiles over concrete slab (it is my family room - at grade). After pulling up one of the tiles it looks as though the concrete may have been painted at one time.

Before laying the ceramic tiles do I need to remove the old adhesive and paint in order for the thinset to adhere properly?

How far from the doorway should I start the tiles? Should I grout up to the doorway?

There is a crack at the doorway (sliding glass door) that appears to have been caused by the slab settling, what do you think of setting the grout back a 1/4 of an inch fron the door/crack and filing the space with cement caulk?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 11-02-01, 10:48 AM
J
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Hi,

Set the tiles in far enough from the door so that you'll have a place to drip off after entering. 2-1/2 to 3 feet or so. Remove everything from the slab before proceeding.

The crack worries me a bit. How wide is it, and is one side higher than the other side? We may be able to fix it, but not with cement.
 
  #3  
Old 11-02-01, 12:13 PM
turracem
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John, thanks for your reply.

I want to set the tiles right next to the door as a transition to carpet from the outside. How close to my sliding glass doors should I set the tiles (1/4 inch, 1/2 inch)?

The crack is about an 1/8in in some places and for the most part is level. The crack runs parallel along the length of the door. I could set the tiles back about 3/4in from the door and avoid the crack. Should a fill it?

What have you found is the best way to get paint off of concrete?

Thanks
 
  #4  
Old 11-03-01, 11:21 AM
J
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I've got a feeling your crack might be between the concete floor and the footing or beam. It is called a cold joint and should not be filled with cement.

You can possibly set the tiles 1/8 to 1/4 in. away from the door track with thin set, except that the last half inch where the crack is could be filled with cauking, both under the edge of the tiles and in the joint between the tiles and the door track. My thinking is that no one will be stepping on this last 3/4 in. area near the track. The caulking will allow the tiles to shift around over the crack without braking.

Scrape as much paint up as you can and the scrub with water. Go over what remains with multi-purpose thin set.
 
  #5  
Old 11-04-01, 12:44 PM
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I'm also laying some tiles on top of cement as well...

My cement floor has been painted, and then sealed somehow. Water beads on it. Do I absolutely have to remove the paint and the seal? And if I have to, can I use chemicals to strip the paint and the seal?

Also, the floor is not completely level. When I laid the tiles down to get a feel for it, several of the tiles could be rocked, although none seem to lift more than 1/8 inch from the floor. Would thickness of the thinset "level" minor differences like the ones I have? Or do I have to pour some leveling compound?

I'm laying 12x12 marble tiles BTW. They seem to have less "flex" than ceramic so I am concerned.
 
  #6  
Old 11-04-01, 01:50 PM
J
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Get the paint off any way you can. Chemicals if necessary.

Marble tiles are not an entry level project. Thin set will handle an eigth of an inch though, no problem.

Ceramic tiles do not flex at all. Neither do stone tiles such as marble.
 
 

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