Patching Torn Sheetrock
#1
03-12-07, 07:45 PM
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Patching Torn Sheetrock
I Just Recently Bought A House That Had Wall Paper In The Bathroom The Looked Awful. Well I Took Off The Wall Paper With A Solution Called Diff. Well The Wall Paper Came Down Pretty Good Except That Some Of The Sheetrock Tore When Pulling Down The Wall Paper. What Can I Do To Fix The Wall Paper That Tore. What Is Some Way That I Can Fix It Without Spending Some Much Money And Please Do Not Tell Me That I Have To Replace The Whole Sheetrock. I Also So Have A Deadline I Have To Meet So Hopefully Someone Will Reply Before I Have To Move In To The House With The Awful Bathroom That I Dont Know How To Fix. Thanks
#2
03-13-07, 02:52 AM
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You're not in "that" much trouble!!
This happens quite often when wallpaper is applied to drywall that has not been previously painted or properly sealed.
To repair the areas you'll need a few "broad knives", some all purpose joint compound (drywall mud), some 80 grit sandpaper and at least 2 to 3 days time frame. No, you won't be working all 3 days!!
Make sure the area to be repaired is free of as much of the fuzz left by the previous paper layer by sanding lightly with the 80 grit sandpaper. You won't be able to remove all the fuzz so just knock off the big stuff!
Using a 6" broad knife (or putty knife, if you prefer!) apply a thin but even coat of drywall compound to the entire area that has been damaged. To help even this, go back over the area almost immediately with a 10" broad knife. Do this with a light touch. All you're wanting to do is to smooth out any lines or high points from the smaller broad knife. Allow this to dry overnight.
The second day, you'll find the area is thoroughly dry but has some roughness to it because of the fuzz left on the wallboard initially. Using your 80 grit sand paper and a flat sanding block (or piece of wood) sand lightly over the entire area paying particular attention to any ridges or overlapping areas. With this sanded , apply another thin coat of compound using your 10" broad knife. I've got to emphasize by thin I mean absolutely no thicker than 1/8".
After you apply the compound go back over it with a 14" broad knife to remove any ridges and further level the entire coat of compound. Allow this to dry again overnight.
On day three you should find the repaired area looking pretty darn good. It'll have some small ridges, etc., but it should be a lot better than the previous morning!! Again, sand the entire area lightly and wipe it down with a slightly damp rag. Using your 10" broad knife, apply a very thin coat of compound and immediately go back over the area with your 14" broad knife. At this point the previous damage to the wall should be virtually gone. When this skim coat of compound is dry, there may be little, if any sanding to be done. If everything looks good, proceed with applying a coat of sealer and paint or wallpaper afterwards.
Check back withus and let us know how things went!!
To repair the areas you'll need a few "broad knives", some all purpose joint compound (drywall mud), some 80 grit sandpaper and at least 2 to 3 days time frame. No, you won't be working all 3 days!!
Make sure the area to be repaired is free of as much of the fuzz left by the previous paper layer by sanding lightly with the 80 grit sandpaper. You won't be able to remove all the fuzz so just knock off the big stuff!
Using a 6" broad knife (or putty knife, if you prefer!) apply a thin but even coat of drywall compound to the entire area that has been damaged. To help even this, go back over the area almost immediately with a 10" broad knife. Do this with a light touch. All you're wanting to do is to smooth out any lines or high points from the smaller broad knife. Allow this to dry overnight.
The second day, you'll find the area is thoroughly dry but has some roughness to it because of the fuzz left on the wallboard initially. Using your 80 grit sand paper and a flat sanding block (or piece of wood) sand lightly over the entire area paying particular attention to any ridges or overlapping areas. With this sanded , apply another thin coat of compound using your 10" broad knife. I've got to emphasize by thin I mean absolutely no thicker than 1/8".
After you apply the compound go back over it with a 14" broad knife to remove any ridges and further level the entire coat of compound. Allow this to dry again overnight.
On day three you should find the repaired area looking pretty darn good. It'll have some small ridges, etc., but it should be a lot better than the previous morning!! Again, sand the entire area lightly and wipe it down with a slightly damp rag. Using your 10" broad knife, apply a very thin coat of compound and immediately go back over the area with your 14" broad knife. At this point the previous damage to the wall should be virtually gone. When this skim coat of compound is dry, there may be little, if any sanding to be done. If everything looks good, proceed with applying a coat of sealer and paint or wallpaper afterwards.
Check back withus and let us know how things went!!
#3
03-13-07, 05:29 AM
Group Moderator
Any area where the paper is missing and the gypsum is exposed needs to be primed with Zinsser Gardz prior to applying any joint compound.
#4
03-13-07, 05:36 AM
As mitch said ALL EXPOSED GYPSUM MUST BE PRIMED FIRST!!!!
Failure to prime the exposed gypsum with a solvent based primer will allow the moisture in either the joint compound or latex paint to be obsorbed by the gypsum causing the surrounding paper to lift.
Failure to prime the exposed gypsum with a solvent based primer will allow the moisture in either the joint compound or latex paint to be obsorbed by the gypsum causing the surrounding paper to lift.
#5
03-13-07, 11:36 AM
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