Requesting aid in removal of wallpaper

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  #1  
Old 05-02-09, 01:34 PM
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Requesting aid in removal of wallpaper

Original link with wrong thread title: http://forum.doityourself.com/patchi...id-please.html
I posted it in another board but this may be more suited here:

Hi, everyone. I got to reword this post. Alright, I'm living with my parents and they have started a project which consisted of removing the old wallpaper from the bathroom of this house that we've just purchased. The house is thirty years old. After having removed all the decorative layering, we were left with the base layer of the wallpaper (I'd assume that to be the adhesive surface).

My mom was given the suggestion of applying a mixture of vinegar and water to these sheets of paper after scoring it then letting the solution sink in for fifteen minutes. She was then told to remove the paper afters in however way possible. Certain areas were easier to remove than others. What we were left with is a combination of mostly the white backing of the drywall (possibly a primer), the top layer of the drywall (a gray colored surface), and an every here and there cardboard surface which was exposed upon occasionally digging into the surface to hard with the scrapers. On top of all this, we're left with little bits of remaining adhesive paper and a good amount of glue residue.

From all the sites I have visited, I've accumulated a list of approaches and formed a plan:

1st. I will sand the area as best as I can with 150-200 grit sanding blocks. I've actually done so already and have sanded off any hanging pieces of gray paper from the areas that had exposed the cardboard backing of the drywall.

2nd. I am recommended to use Gard Problem Sealer which is a water based sealer designed for adhering to "damaged" dry wall, on their product page they have a small picture of the situation I have where the cardboard is exposed. What I'm looking for is an alternative and a confirmation that I would be using a sealer in this situation.

3rd. I'm then told to sand the area once again and fill in the indents with joint compound. I was also told I should skim coat those areas. (What's best? I need an elaboration of what skim coating really means)

4th. I'm told I can use Gardz again as a primer (Using the same product or a different one?) or I'm supposed to apply another layer of sealer (Obviously the same product if this is the case) then sand again.

5th. Then I'm suggested to prime again with an oil based primer. (If Gardz can't act as a primer considering that I'm told that sealers repel paint adhesion while primer aids in adhesion) (Would a latex primer do anything justice?)

6th. Paint two layers of the desired paint.

What I need help with is advice and suggestions for a better approach to this situation. I also need alternative products because I'm just looking to purchase products from the local Home Depot. I'm in dire need and with the pressure of my stepdad trying to tell me and my mother that this task is impossible for us, I need some solutions. This project wasn't started by me but my parents who didn't bother doing the research and preparation required to take on the task and I'd like to provide them with that solution needed to rememdy the situation.
A user provided me a quick guide saying that I should use a primer/ sealer, then drywall mud, then primer but I'm also confused as to what type of primer/ sealer. One guide says it's water based while this user mentions it's oil based. But the recommended product which is Gardz is water based.

This is how my wall looks after it took a primary sanding:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8378/0502091429b.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8827/0502091429a.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/9102/0502091516.jpg

Prior:
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3885/0501091744.jpg
 
  #2  
Old 05-02-09, 03:19 PM
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#1 - 100-150 grit would be faster
#2 - Zinnser's gardz is the only latex primer I'd use for this - the alternative is an oil base primer.
#3 - You would fill in the low spots with join compound. A skim coat is a thin layer of j/c applied to the entire wall or section. Mix and thin the j/c a tad with water and it will flow better.
#4 - sand the dry j/c first and remove any sanding dust. You can either use gardz or most any other latex primer.
#5 - not needed
#6 - correct although it's best to use a latex enamel [any sheen] in bath rms. A kitchen and bath paint would be even better [has extra mildewcide and is formulated for the harsher conditions]

I didn't look at all the pics - dial up
but it looks like you are on the right track
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-09, 06:51 PM
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Sheetrock/Wallpaper primer

I'm no expert, far from it, but the way I understand it you can use either a latex or an oil based primer. The difference will be when you (or your heirs) try to remove the wall paper. Latex primer does not seal the sheetrock's paper surface and the wall paper glue is absorbed into it, causing the problem you're having now. An oil based primer will not allow the glue to be absorbed and make removal easier the next time. Try resoaking the areas that still have the glue and wall paper backing stuck to the sheetrock.
 
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Old 05-14-09, 03:43 PM
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As I understand it, all the paper and paste residue has been removed?

if that is true, then yes, apply Zinsser Gardz (or if you can find the product Gardz was copied from, Draw-Tite by Scotch Paints) to the damaged areas.

Patch as needed as described by marksr. Please make sure ALL the dust from sanding is removed. If you run your hand over the area and it shows dust, it ain't all removed Try a barely damp cloth.

Anyway, another coat of Gardz (or Draw-tite) would be best. The resins in Gardz and Draw-tite are not your regular old "latex". The surface will be sealed against moisture. Many wallpaper installers hang right on top of Draw-Tite and Gardz.

If you want to apply Gardz/Draw-Tite over the whole walls, that would be fine. If you want to apply a primer to color the walls, that's cool too. Remember, the oil paints have gone through a lot of changes in the last few years due to federal reduction of VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds). The oil paints of today just are not as good as they were in the 80's. On the other hand, there has been amazing improvements in the waterbornes.

If you are painting, please use a top quality 100% acrylic latex. The Behr paint sold at Home Depot is not what any pro would use - and that's for a reason. You'll be happier if you spend the extra dollars for a top-quality paint.
 
 

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