Adding a wall w/door
#1

Hi All,
I have used the search engine and I still have questions.
In my garage there is a 9' x 5' area that is almost like an ante chamber. I guess you are supposed to put a deep freeze there or something. Any way I want to close that off and make a little room/workshop for myself. The wall will be along one of the 5' sides and will have a door in it obviously. My garage walls are finished so I have drywall already on them. My question is how do I tie the new wall into the existing ceiling(8') and connecting walls (one of which is an exterior wall of my garage).
Thanks for any help
I have used the search engine and I still have questions.
In my garage there is a 9' x 5' area that is almost like an ante chamber. I guess you are supposed to put a deep freeze there or something. Any way I want to close that off and make a little room/workshop for myself. The wall will be along one of the 5' sides and will have a door in it obviously. My garage walls are finished so I have drywall already on them. My question is how do I tie the new wall into the existing ceiling(8') and connecting walls (one of which is an exterior wall of my garage).
Thanks for any help
#2
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
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Build a 2X4 frame w/door opening to fit on the garage floor.
Use a pressure-treated 2X4 for the sole plate, and the rest can be untreated 2X4s.
Double the 2X4s on the ends of the door/wall section.
Nail the top to the garage ceiling rafters and walls, and drill and anchor the sole plate to the concrete floor or use concrete nails.
There are other ways to do this, and if you need more info, just come back on this same thread and ask.
Good luck!
Mike
Use a pressure-treated 2X4 for the sole plate, and the rest can be untreated 2X4s.
Double the 2X4s on the ends of the door/wall section.
Nail the top to the garage ceiling rafters and walls, and drill and anchor the sole plate to the concrete floor or use concrete nails.
There are other ways to do this, and if you need more info, just come back on this same thread and ask.
Good luck!
Mike
#3
Thanks for replying so quickly....yes, I have some more questions.
One end of my wall/door section will join up with a corner so no problem tieing in to the wall stud there, but the other end falls between studs on the exterior wall. The celing has a similar problem. The wall runs parallel to the rafters and is between them also. So, I have a sturdy joint on two side of my wall (floor and corner joint), but the top/ceiling joint and exterior wall joint are sketchy for me. Also on the exterior wall joint do I need to remove the existing dry wall in the joint area or can it be flush against it?

One end of my wall/door section will join up with a corner so no problem tieing in to the wall stud there, but the other end falls between studs on the exterior wall. The celing has a similar problem. The wall runs parallel to the rafters and is between them also. So, I have a sturdy joint on two side of my wall (floor and corner joint), but the top/ceiling joint and exterior wall joint are sketchy for me. Also on the exterior wall joint do I need to remove the existing dry wall in the joint area or can it be flush against it?

#4
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Taylors, SC
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Unfortunately, the ideal way to do this is to open the ceiling and run 2x4s between the joists for the top to attach; on the wall you would open it and insert a stud toe nailed in place for attachment. On the wall with drywall over the stud, you can just nail through the drywall into the stud.
Or move the new wall 8 inches in and avoid all this.
Or move the new wall 8 inches in and avoid all this.
#5
I'm probably gonna get beat by the pros for suggesting this and it's probably not up to code but...
Rather than break into the finished ceiling/wall to install cross-bracing to attach your new wall where it falls between studs/rafters, I would cut a piece of 3/4" CDX plywood 17.5" wide (or however wide it needs to be to span completely the distance between two studs... usually 14.5" and the studs themselves +3") and then screw that in to the studs up the wall and the rafters/joists accross the ceiling. Then attach the wall directly to the plywood using screws instead of nails and maybe even a bead of construction adhesive. It won't look pretty but it is a garage after all right?
good luck.
Rather than break into the finished ceiling/wall to install cross-bracing to attach your new wall where it falls between studs/rafters, I would cut a piece of 3/4" CDX plywood 17.5" wide (or however wide it needs to be to span completely the distance between two studs... usually 14.5" and the studs themselves +3") and then screw that in to the studs up the wall and the rafters/joists accross the ceiling. Then attach the wall directly to the plywood using screws instead of nails and maybe even a bead of construction adhesive. It won't look pretty but it is a garage after all right?
good luck.