Cost to hang/finish drywall

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  #1  
Old 02-25-03, 08:48 AM
danielmccoy
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Cost to hang/finish drywall

I'm finishing my basement and I'm ready for drywall. I purchased the sheets ( 4x8 1/2" thick) and carried them into the basement. I would like to get some estimates for 1.) hang and finish 2.) just finish ( I do the hanging). What is a ballpark estimate to do work like this? I assume they estimate price per sheet. I've got approx 500 sq. ft. and the ceiling will be drwall.
 
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Old 02-26-03, 05:17 AM
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danielmccoy,

Just ballpark price could be $.50 - $.75 SF to hang and $.75 to $1.00 SF to finish. Being a small job the costs may be higher. Check with local drywall companies for better handle on pricing.

Hope theis helps and let us know what you found out!
 
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Old 03-02-03, 09:38 AM
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I think Doug's ballpark must be for the contractor to furnish material, which I understand you've already purchased. I do alot of work in the Columbia, Mo area, a college town of about 150,000, the rates here for hang & smooth finish usually run no more than $0.40 s/f, add an extra nickle a s/f for spray/knockdown (texturing) Homeowner or builder supplies all materials for that price. However if indeed we're only talking about 500 s/f total of drywall, (which seems really small for a basement, only 10- 12' sheets) I'd have to charge hrly on that $20 to $25 an hr, depending on how from home it is.

If you can hang it, you can finish it yourself, really the hanging part is over half the job IMO, funny how many folks are afraid to take on the finishing. You can rent a spray rig & hopper for about $40-50 a day and you can easily spray & knockdown a whole house in a day. I did a 4 rm addition last week start to finish with one helper. Hang, finish & knocked-down, ready for primer & paint. If you don't have the right tools though, might want to consider subbing this out. Hanging is hard on you particularly lids, unless you rent a drywall jack, then you'll spend twice the time just getting the lids up. Finishing is messy, if you've just got a wood subfloor down I use 15lb roofing felt to cover it after I finish hanging & removing scrap. Use a hammer tacker of stapler to tack it down, then do your mudding, and when all finished, rip it up & pitch it in the dumpster. Trust me it's alot easier than trying to scrape all the excess sheetrock mud that will be all over the floor, concrete isn't so bad, but scrapeing is a bear on wood, especially osb.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 06:18 AM
danielmccoy
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Thanks for the responses. The 500 sq. ft. I indicated represents the room dimensions (20 X 25 = 500 sq. ft. space) and not the amount of drywall, sorry for the confusion. Based on some estimates I've gotten I decided to go ahead and hang the drywall myself and pay to have it 'finished'. I rented a panel jack over the weekend and did all the ceiling boards. I'll work on the walls next weekend. I've tried 'finishing' before but my joints looked like sh*&^%. I wish I could 'finish' it myself but I just don't seem to have the 'touch'.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 06:30 AM
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danielmccoy,

Just wanted to clarify something for you and others, the prices here in the Detroit area run;

Square Foot Pricing - Labor

$.50 - $.60 to hang

$.40 - $.50 to tape

$.40 on average to paint

My previous post was off. Can you gives us details on the pricing you received? What did you spend on material? This would help others know costing. Also where you live.

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:07 AM
danielmccoy
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I'm located in the Cincinnati area. The 2 bids I got included hanging and finishing and were priced per board ( 4x8 sheet). These were drywall companies whose names I got out of the phone book. Their prices were high because: 1) my job was small compared to what they usually do 2) construction is at record-pace and so they are charging premium prices. 3) basements generally have more seams because of ceiling drops, etc. At least that's what they told me. They also volunteered that I could get better price if I dealt with smaller operations, i.e. find a person in business for himself. The first bid was $65.00/sheet, the second was $47.50/sheet. Also, neither company would accept the job if I hung the drywall myself and I just hired them to finish it. As far as costs of materials.....4x8 (1/2" thick) drywall is now $4.24 in this area. I used a friend's pickup truck to deliver it and carried it downstairs with the help of a friend.
It was suggested to me that I 'hang' around the daily employment agencies and find a drywall finisher who is looking for work in order to get the best price.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:38 AM
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danielmccoy,

Thanks for the feedback, with my pricing that I listed, I came up with $48.80 per sheet, pretty close to your low bid, for hang and tape!

That is a big difference in price range though but I do understand about the lower level pricing and the fact that no drywaller wants to tape a owners work. It can be a nightmare!

I hope all goes well for you!
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:42 AM
danielmccoy
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The panel lift rental was $25.00 for 24 hours from Home Depot. So far it was the best $25 I've spent on this project!
 
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Old 03-03-03, 09:08 PM
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Working that out to $ per s/f, that lower bid would be just a tad higher than what I regularly charge for small jobs like that. Taping isn't all that hard, key is in having the correct width of blade, & hold the knife right. Hold the handle of your blade with your thumb, pinky, & ring fingers, extend your first two fingers in a vee shape on the back side of your knife and apply firm pressure. Start in the middle of your seam and work to opposite ends. Flip off excess mud from your blade before it runs over the sides and when you get to a corner, stop a few inches back, clean your knife & then lay it flat over your seam & push it towards the corner with the blade facing the corner to get the seam ends embedded in the mud.

Well after reading that, I see it looks hard, but it really isn't. As to finding a finisher to tape your hanging, good luck, way too many seams using 8 footers, in that size of room I'd of hung 12's & 10's myself, but I do this for a living.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 09:16 PM
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awesomedell,

Strange, I couldn't tell you did it for a living!! (LOL) Very good detail in how to do it. I almost think that you have those dreams in your sleep!

I hope you're helping those folks in the patching and plastering section...it's nice to have someone who can give the detail in easy to understand language. Doing it and explaining it can be 2 different things and you have done it quite well!

Thanks for the great insight!!
 
  #11  
Old 03-04-03, 05:42 AM
danielmccoy
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Awesomedell,

Thanks for the feedback, your instructions make it seem easy. If only it were so.... It was suggested to me to use 10' or 12' length sheets to minimize number of joints but because of the way my steps into basement are laid out I could only get the 8' sheet down.
 
  #12  
Old 03-04-03, 08:48 PM
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Daniel
I totally understand your dilema with getting 12' sheets down a basement staircase, that's why some bright young fella invented the walk-out basement. But hey ya gotta live with what ya got. Key thing you want to remember is to stagger your butt joints, where your ends come together. Using all 8' footers, you may have to do some extra cutting to accomplish this, but never, ever let a butt joint extend more than the width of one sheet. You try to use factory edges at the butt joints, but with 8' sheets & the size of your room, that's not gonna be possible. If you haven't got one go to the big box and spend $7 or $8 & get sheetrock rasp and smooth your cut edges prior to hanging, this will haelp give ya tighter seams. If you have to do any rips, like say if ya got a 9 or 10 foot ceiling, I'd put it at the top with the cut edge to the corner, if you have to make a cut edge meet even with a recessed edge, back cut your edge at a 45 degree and it will lay right down smooth as a baby's butt next to that factory recessed edge.

Post back if ya run into any more questions.
 
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Old 03-04-03, 09:14 PM
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Doug,
I don't have dreams about it, just nightmares. Yep I do it for a living, along with tile & hardwood floors, doors & windows, vinyl siding, I've even been known to tackle a roof if times are tight enough and the money is right, but I absolutely don't stock roofs and I don't do tear-offs anymore.

Haven't found my way over to the plastering board yet, but I'll try to give it a look some time, maybe tomorrow, from the looks of what's coming down outside tonight, looks like we may get up to a skating rink, yuck I hate winter. I like helpin folks out, and I definitely know what it's like to be on a shoestring budget, hey I got teenagers. Budgeting is simple, work make $$, put bills in a hat and draw to see who this week's lucky winner is.

Also I learn new things on boards every day, just this evening I learned that all these yrs I've been calling wood valances by the wrong name, apparently some folks know 'em as a cornice. Sounds like a word that Martha Stewart thought up, or one of them fruity designers on Tradin Spaces. Ooops, I better calm down, don't want to get the board cops down on me for not being PC. Course I ain't never been accused of that offense.
 

Last edited by awesomedell; 03-04-03 at 09:31 PM.
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