Remove Drywall Ceiling and Replace?
#1
04-26-03, 01:34 PM
Remove Drywall Ceiling and Replace?
I am converting my existing 22'x22' garage to a bedroom. The roof and ceiling is a 2x4 truss system placed 24" OC. The ceiling is 1/2" drywall, and the taped joints have come loose over the years apparently due to moisture damage. The walls are OSB.
My contractor suggested removing the old drywall from the ceiling and replacing it. We will cover the 1/4" OSB wall with 1/2" drywall.
Do we really need to remove the old drywall from the ceiling?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
My contractor suggested removing the old drywall from the ceiling and replacing it. We will cover the 1/4" OSB wall with 1/2" drywall.
Do we really need to remove the old drywall from the ceiling?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
#2
04-27-03, 06:17 AM
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Is the 1/2" ceiling drywall flat or sagging?
Are the taped seams the only problem?
If the ceiling is flat, or can be screwed back flat, you should be able to use it by retaping the seams.
If it's sagging anywhere between those 24" centers, you need to use 5/8".
Good luck!
Mike
Are the taped seams the only problem?
If the ceiling is flat, or can be screwed back flat, you should be able to use it by retaping the seams.
If it's sagging anywhere between those 24" centers, you need to use 5/8".
Good luck!
Mike
#3
04-27-03, 06:23 AM
Just some thoughts. Has the old ceiling developed sags between joists? If so, recovering or replacing might look better.
If you take the old down, putting up insulation may be easier.
You might just cover over the old, for a fresh look.
You could retape and mud and get along with the project. Minor defects in the sheetrock could be repaired as well.
My inclination would be to skip the added labor cost of removing something that probably does not present a problem.
Hope this helps.
If you take the old down, putting up insulation may be easier.
You might just cover over the old, for a fresh look.
You could retape and mud and get along with the project. Minor defects in the sheetrock could be repaired as well.
My inclination would be to skip the added labor cost of removing something that probably does not present a problem.
Hope this helps.
#5
04-27-03, 08:58 PM
I seriously doubt that the added weight of the other layer of drywall would matter. If you were going to cover the old, you could use 1/4" drywall. I would be easier to use.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#6
04-28-03, 07:30 PM
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With the 24" centers that lid should be hung with either 1/2" Type C or 5/8" sheetrock. Anything thinner than that & you're gonna have sagging again in a relatively short time.
I've also hung some 1/2" AS, anti-sag, not sure, but I think it's made by either USG or Temple.
I wouldn't go with 1/4" ever on a lid unless it has a solid sheeting under it.
I've also hung some 1/2" AS, anti-sag, not sure, but I think it's made by either USG or Temple.
I wouldn't go with 1/4" ever on a lid unless it has a solid sheeting under it.
#7
04-28-03, 08:32 PM
Thanks everyone for the input. I think we will go with the "sure thing" and replace it.
A related question: apparently moisture caused the old tape to turn loose. In my new garage, how can I prevent the same thing from happening? Is there a moisture resistant compound to use, or is it painting that keeps moisture out?
A related question: apparently moisture caused the old tape to turn loose. In my new garage, how can I prevent the same thing from happening? Is there a moisture resistant compound to use, or is it painting that keeps moisture out?
