Bathroom Ceiling

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  #1  
Old 05-20-03, 09:31 AM
rockin_32
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Bathroom Ceiling

I have just moved into a house that has the basement shower in the laundry room instead of the bathroom. There are furring strips on the ceiling for 12"x12" tiles so I purchased tiles to staple. My question is what do I use for the area above the shower? There will only be about an inch gap between the ceiling and the top of the shower. Are there different(waterproof)tiles to use. Or is there some sort of moisture proofing I can do to the tiles I already purchased?
 
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  #2  
Old 05-20-03, 10:48 AM
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Hello & welcome aboard.

The tiles you're describing won't hold up well on a ceiling with that small of clearance above the shower. I'd suggest going with either green board, (moisture resistant drywall), or with the vinyl or hardboard bath panels. It would also be a real good idea to put in a vent fan in the shower, this will prolong the life of whatever you put up there by yrs.
 
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Old 05-20-03, 12:11 PM
rockin_32
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Do they make something vinyl or hard in a 12x12 tile? I would like to put in a fan but to do so would require going thru the 8" poured foundation, or the steel crossmember above it..It looks like the previous owner had the same idea and stopped when he got to the wall..not relealizing the steel beem was there until he got there.
 

Last edited by rockin_32; 05-20-03 at 01:12 PM.
  #4  
Old 05-20-03, 04:35 PM
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How tall is the ceiling in this rm? Could you possibly put in a soffet ceiling? Then you could run your vent duct to the nearest wall & out.

Not aware of anything in a 12"x12", vinyl type tile or hardboard either. Most of the stuff I'm talking about comes in 4'x8' sheets. If you are forced to go with the tiles you've got for lack of a better option, I'd prime & paint them with a good waterprof paint, I'd probably opt for an exterior grade of paint myself.
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-03, 08:15 PM
rockin_32
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Hi,

Its a 7' ceiling minus an inch or two for the furring strip track hanging down.
Im not sure what a soffet would do me considering the walls are poured concrete I wouldnt have a way to get the venting out. I sure would like to put one in there though.
I think I remember some tin 12x12 tiles at a local home store I might check out.
 
  #6  
Old 05-20-03, 09:32 PM
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With a 7' lid, you're pretty limited, as to height. You can use the flex vent like for a dryer to run it out, but you'd still need about 4" for it to run.

Looks like you're stuck with either using the the 12" tiles in which case use a good primer & paint & follow mfgr's directions for application, of go with a sheet good like bath panel. Good luck.
 
  #7  
Old 05-21-03, 06:22 AM
rockin_32
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Thanks..I do have room above the furring strips between the joices to run duct work out. The problem is what to do with it when I reach the wall. Its concrete, and running across the top of the foundation is a steel crossmember. This little house was builit like a tank..As far as tiles. I think I'll put up the ones that I have but leave a 4'x4' area above the shower and then see what works best..maybe treated sheetrock or a panel. Thanks for your help
 

Last edited by rockin_32; 05-21-03 at 07:04 AM.
  #8  
Old 05-21-03, 06:51 PM
rockin_32
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Is there a tool, or some kind of hole saw that would cut through a steel beam? its not very thick
 
  #9  
Old 05-26-03, 04:27 AM
Gary7
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Do you use this shower? If not, tear it out and eliminate the problem.

If you do use the shower, install cement board (Durock or similar) with PL400 and screws. Rather than using the fiber tiles you spoke of, glue ceramic and grout after the glue has set for a few days.

I am curious what the firring strips are fastened to?
 
  #10  
Old 05-26-03, 05:06 AM
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Gary7,

Please tell me you're not recommending gluing or worse yet using mastic to set tile in a shower? Please tell me it ain't so!

Tile should never be set in a wet area with anything other than thinset or better yet good old fashioned mud bed. But never ever should tiles in a wet area be set with a construction adhesive or mastic.
 

Last edited by awesomedell; 05-26-03 at 07:42 PM.
  #11  
Old 05-27-03, 04:59 AM
Gary7
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Dell, You've missed the point by 100%. Using ceramic tile was only my suggestion. And troweled glue verses thinset doesn't help rockin_32 with his project. They both work.

Rocking_32, Rethink cutting through the steel beam. Also, how much value will that shower bring to you and how much value will it bring to the home upon resale? If you have other showers available, that space may be better used in another plumbing (or not) capacity.

Just a thought, but what do I know.
 
  #12  
Old 05-27-03, 12:30 PM
rockin_32
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Hi, the purpose of the shower is to allow the person who is going to be renting my basement a place to shower. I have finished bedroom and installed an egress window in it. I have tiled the bathroom floor so the only thing left to do is tile the ceiling. Installing an exhaust fan would also be a good idea, but I need to get the the outside...
 
  #13  
Old 05-27-03, 12:44 PM
Gary7
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Fan is a great idea. Can you send me a photo of the ceiling via email?. you mentioned concrete, steel beam, and firring strips. Trying to put it together to find you a solution, but difficult to do without seeing. Email address: [email protected]
 
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Old 05-27-03, 12:54 PM
rockin_32
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I dont have much of an opportunity to send you a photo but I wish I could. The ferring strips are 1x3 and are running just under the joices. Every other joice is steel so the strips are not attached the joices themselves, but to 1x3's, cut to about 3 or 4 inches or so to make them level with the bottom of the joice. They were already there when I purchased the house so I plan on taking advantage of them..I purchased the tile but didnt think to take into consideration the area directly above the shower when I did. So I plan to stop by my local home improvement store and see what I can stick up there..maybe I can find a shower cap for the shower..who knows.
The other problem is installing an exhaust fan. The wall is 8" poured concrete with a steel crossmember running on top of the foundation. So in order to get a pipe/hose out I need to cut what I would assume will have to be about a 4" hole in the crossmember..To the best of my knowledge I can't get a hole saw that big can I?
 
  #15  
Old 05-29-03, 04:31 AM
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Drill a hole & then use a steel rated blade on a saw-saw to cut your hole. Don't worry that 4" hole isn't going to hurt the ibeam.
 
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Old 05-29-03, 04:42 AM
rockin_32
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That is kind of what I was thinking..nothing is ever easy..but it'll fun..haha Thanks for your advice!
 
  #17  
Old 05-29-03, 07:26 PM
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Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
 
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