?? load bearing wall
#1
05-06-00, 11:36 AM
We want to remove a wall between the kitchen and the dining room and put in a breakfast bar. My husband thinks that we will have to get a contractor to tell us if the wall is load bearing. Is there a way that we can tell by ourselves? Thanks,
[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited June 03, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited June 03, 2000).]
#2
05-06-00, 02:50 PM
If the wall runs parallel with your front and back wall it is probably load bearing. This is because the ceiling joists or trusses would run perpendicular to those same walls.
This assumes that your house is built in a standard way with a gable or hip roof.
------------------
MTAC - Van Buren,MO
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Home repair & Construction
"Where the character and work are always upright"
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This assumes that your house is built in a standard way with a gable or hip roof.
------------------
MTAC - Van Buren,MO
www.carpenter.cjb.net
Home repair & Construction
"Where the character and work are always upright"
Anything worth cutting down a tree for, is worth doing right.
www.toolreview.cjb.net
#5
06-02-00, 10:37 AM
quote:<HR>Originally posted by More than a Carpenter:
If the wall runs parallel with your front and back wall it is probably load bearing. This is because the ceiling joists or trusses would run perpendicular to those same walls.
This assumes that your house is built in a standard way with a gable or hip roof.
<HR>
MC,
Won't any bearing wall be blocked or braced in the basement or crawl space of the house? I know this is useless for a slab on grade, but if not...
In addition, the homeowner may want to consider retrofitting a lintel and reinforcing the end studs and removing other studs in the wall if it is load bearing. This could create the same "opening" for the bar...
M
#6
06-02-00, 05:57 PM
"...blocked or braced in the basement or crawl space..." Not very often. Have seen it done that way in a couple of homes, but have been under thousands where no such blocking or bracing exists. Best but is to go into the attic and see if the wall in question runs parallel or perpendicular to the ceiling joists or trusses. If it's perpendicular, assume it a bearing wall. Even if the assumption is wrong, you're erring on the side of safety.
quote:<HR>Originally posted by Mastiff:
MC,
Won't any bearing wall be blocked or braced in the basement or crawl space of the house? I know this is useless for a slab on grade, but if not...
In addition, the homeowner may want to consider retrofitting a lintel and reinforcing the end studs and removing other studs in the wall if it is load bearing. This could create the same "opening" for the bar...
M
<HR>
#7
06-02-00, 09:32 PM
Thanks Lefty,
Most new construction homes do not use this method for underneath bearing walls. They also run perpendicular to the floor joists as well as the ceiling joist/truss.
Even though trusses are engineered to "bear" on the exterior walls, I always consider any wall running perpendicular to them as "load bearing"
And I build all of my door and window headers the same identical way. 2x10 with either 7/16" OSB or 1/2" plywood sandwiched between. and then put a 2x4 on the underneath, unless the window heigth is not 6'8".
MTAC
[This message has been edited by More than a Carpenter (edited June 03, 2000).]
Most new construction homes do not use this method for underneath bearing walls. They also run perpendicular to the floor joists as well as the ceiling joist/truss.
Even though trusses are engineered to "bear" on the exterior walls, I always consider any wall running perpendicular to them as "load bearing"
And I build all of my door and window headers the same identical way. 2x10 with either 7/16" OSB or 1/2" plywood sandwiched between. and then put a 2x4 on the underneath, unless the window heigth is not 6'8".
MTAC
[This message has been edited by More than a Carpenter (edited June 03, 2000).]
#8
06-03-00, 04:30 AM
You got some good information here. Alot of it. by the time that it took to read it all and digest it, I could have had your wall cut out. In your case, everyone was right, just different styles of construction in different periods of time. Good Luck
#9
06-03-00, 09:41 PM
MTAC -- pretty sure you and I were saying the same thing in regards to the blocking and bracing in the crawl space. I have seen it a couple of times, but those were VERY old houses. It's just not done anymore.
MLT4838 -- if the wall in question runs in the same direction as your ceiling joists, it's not a bearing wall. If if runs perpendicular to the joists, treat it as a bearing wall.
MLT4838 -- if the wall in question runs in the same direction as your ceiling joists, it's not a bearing wall. If if runs perpendicular to the joists, treat it as a bearing wall.
#10
06-18-00, 10:07 PM
1) Using exterior walls to determine if a wall inside the house is a bearing wall is not a good idea.Better check the direction the ridge line of you roof runs abearing wall will run in the same direction as the ridge of you roof.The execption would be in the case of a hip roof were ceiling joists often change direction at each end of the house and a wall is run crossways to support the inside ends of the joist.In this case check from inside the attic.A check in the attic is good precaution either way.Another way is to use a stud finder to locate your ceiling joists and see which direction they run.
#11
05-21-09, 06:41 PM
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Interior wall that is braced.
I have an interior wall that is runs along with the ceiling joists. of which I would like to remove to expand my living room. when I opened the wall I found what looks like a 1X6 plank brace running diagonal through the wall. is this some thing to be worried about or can I remove the wall?
Please help I need advice
Please help I need advice
