I want to put a hole in my wall ...

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  #1  
Old 09-02-00, 10:32 AM
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We have a l-o-o-ong closet that has a door on the short side. I want to create an opening on the long side and possible finish it off with louvered bifolds.
What is the best (read neatest, easiest and most practical) way to cut a "hole" in the wall?
We did something similar in the kids'rooms and I never did accomplish, to my satisfaction, what I set out to do.
What preparation, tools, methods, etc. are needed to cut through drywall and inner framing etc.?
Your advice would be VERY much appreciated!
Thank you.
P.S. Now that I've discovered this wonderful site, I will probably move in and live here for awhile!!!
 
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Old 09-02-00, 08:16 PM
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I would trace my opening on the outside of the wall, plug in my sawsall using the rough blade, and cut it out. It will probably take you a whole ten minutes.
 
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Old 09-03-00, 09:29 AM
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Dear Jack ---
What in the tarnation is a "sawsall"?
Your reply is eagerly anticipated.
Thank you.
A Coulter
 
  #4  
Old 09-05-00, 05:23 AM
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If you don't know what a Sawzall is, the biggest favor you can do for yourself is to hire this project done. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Anbeduma:

Dear Jack ---
What in the tarnation is a "sawsall"?
Your reply is eagerly anticipated.
Thank you.
A Coulter
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

 
  #5  
Old 09-08-00, 07:47 AM
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I laughed out loud at my desk when the discussion turned to the sawsall (A Milkaukee Tools brandname, which is actually spelled "Sawzall"). It is a reciprocating saw by its generic name. It's kinda like a jigsaw on steroids. If you don't have one, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Trace the opening but plan it for the doors you intend to buy, of course. I would make the opening a couple inches taller and wider than the doors to accomodate a jamb. I would definitely find the existing studs and try to cut the wall material off leaving an exposed stud on each side. If you're lucky your house was built using 16" centers. You'll end up taking one out in the middle and having about a 30-1/2" opening, and buying 28" doors.

Now, make sure you don't have any wiring or pipes in that wall and blast a hole in it with a sledge hammer. You can use a keyhole saw to take out either sheetrock or lath & plaster evenly to the studs, it just takes about 50 times longer than a sawzall. If you have the money, you can get an economy model reciprocating saw at Sears for about $89. It's OK if you aren't going to use it constantly. I have a 120 year old house that was abused for the last 20, so I have a lot of work to do. I had little trouble justifying the purchase of a 75th anniversary edition Sawzall Plus to my wife, despite the $150 price tag. It was definitely worth it. You could definitely demolish an entire 2 story wood-frame house single handedly with that baby! Anyway, whichever brand or model you might buy, pick up a couple 8" blades rated for "nail-embedded wood" and have at it.

Once you have your opening finished toenail a stud across the top, about 1-1/2" higher than the doors and throw in a door jamb. They're available as a kit and include the top and both sides. The wood is 1/2" wider on both side to come flush with your wall material if you have standard 2x4 studs. When you pick up the jamb kit, get a pack of cedar shims, they're about a buck, to level the top and plumb the sides of the jamb. Then you get some "stop moulding" and the face trim of your choice to finish off the opening. The face trim covers the boo-boos nicely.

If this raises more questions than it answers, write in again. I'll check in with you from time to time.

gls
 
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