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Hanging Drywall--Vertical vs. Horizontal

Hanging Drywall--Vertical vs. Horizontal

Old 08-17-03, 09:52 PM
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Hanging Drywall--Vertical vs. Horizontal

I am currently working on finishing 1/2 of my basement and I am at the point where I am about to begin hanging drywall. I have used 2x4 framing (16" O.C.). My ceiling height is about 7'6". I have purchased 1/2" 4x8 sheets of drywall. My question is this---Should I hang the drywall vertically or horizontally? Are there advantages/disadvantages of doing one vs. the other? There are 2 or 3 spots in the room where my framing is not exactly 16" O.C..

A few thoughts:

1. It seems that if I hang the drywall horizontally I will have to deal with taping and mudding a few end joints (non tapered portion of the drywall). How is this done? Also, if hanging horizontally, would I place the "full" board on the bottom (with the taper at the floor) and the cut at the ceiling ?

2. Is there an issue with the integrity of the horizontal joint (if hanging horizontally) with joints that are "between studs" (ie. the 14 1/2" space between studs)?

Any comments/tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated!!
Old 08-18-03, 07:01 AM
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The horizontal versus vertical has to do with the horizontal having fewer joints to tape and mud, because you can use longer sheets of drywall. The ends or joints in the drywall need to be made over a stud. Finish the butt joints the same as the tapered. It takes a tad more work, but you can hide them just as well.
Old 08-18-03, 08:22 AM
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Hang it horazontally! If you don't you will create 7'6" butt joints which you don't want. Hang your top first and then cut the bottom. The integrety of the joints is stronger, not weaker. The drywall actully ties all of your studs together and makes them stiffer. Remember to stagger your butt joints. Like chfite said, if you get long enough material you will minimize butt joints.
Old 08-27-03, 06:12 PM
Chip Jenkins
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I worked with a drywall contractor (in my younger days) and this is what I can tell you. Hang it horizontal. You put the first piece tight to the ceiling and then the second one below with the cut edge down, that way you are not too concerned about the gap at the bottom of the wall since it is covered by baseboard. Drywall should not contact the floor, especially if it is concrete. Use a prybar to lift the lower piece up tight against the upper one. If your studs are not placed properly, you can either cut the end off the sheet or put in a nailer stud in the wall where you need it. Use liquid nails to cut down on the number of screw holes that need to be patched. The (untapered) vertical joints should be feathered with a wide band of drywall compound after taping to minimize the appearance. And a little trick that I learned back then was to use a small router or rotozip to cut out for switch or outlet boxes. You mark the general location of (an empty) outlet box, hold the drywall in place, fire up the router with any drill in it, push the bit through the drywall on the inside of the outlet box, move to the edge of the box (without cutting through it), lift the bit out and insert it just on the other side of the box, and then cut around the outside. It seems rather verbose in my description, but it is very easy and it makes perfectly sized and located holes. You may want to practice with a few scrap pieces until you get the hang of it.


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