repair drywall

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  #1  
Old 09-08-03, 03:37 PM
hadvisor
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repair drywall

Ok - newb here. My house is about a year old.
I "developed" a hole in a wall between joists(clear thru) that is about 4 by 4 inches.
I have read about many different ways to repair it, most of them seemed like cobbling. What would you guys/gals suggest? I'm pretty new when it comes to drywall/painting/sanding...
Any help would be great!!!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-08-03, 04:59 PM
mudder
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"Developed"?
How big is the hole please.
 
  #3  
Old 09-08-03, 05:05 PM
hadvisor
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about the size of a softball...
 
  #4  
Old 09-08-03, 07:31 PM
mudder
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well first take the softball out of the hole.
I've had a lot of luck with this shortcut:
Cut the hole so it is square. Cut a piece of drywall one inch bigger on all sides ie: for a 4" X 4" hole the drywall should be 5" X 5".
now score the perimeter of the back of the drywall one inch from the edges and break along the cut. Peel away the 1 inch strips leaving the good side of the paper intact. This leaves a square of drywall that fits into the hole with paper 'flapps' to overlap the hole's sides. Now smear mud around the sides of the hole and insert the drywall, press the flaps into the mud with a plaster knife. apply mud two more coats to feather into rest of ceiling.
 
  #5  
Old 09-09-03, 10:50 AM
brickeyee
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An invisible repair can be made by securing a piece of 1x2 across the opening. Cut the piece of wood about 6 inches longer than the hole. Center it on the hole with glue on each end and fasten to the existing drywall with a screw at each end. Let the glue dry overnight. Cut a patch with about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap all the way around. Fasten the patch to the wood with 2 drywall screws. Apply mesh tape to the joints. Do not overlap the tape anywhere. Use Easysand90 for the first coat of compound. Mix the mud pretty thick. Work it into the joints and try to fill the crack completely. Use whatever compound you prefer after the first coat. The patch should end up about 18 inches across when it is all feathered out.
 
  #6  
Old 09-09-03, 12:36 PM
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Listen to brickeyee on this one. The butterfly method mudder suggested will leave you bitting your pillow.
 
  #7  
Old 09-09-03, 03:01 PM
djg
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Meshhhhhhy

Buckeyee's method is OK BUT - Haven't used the mesh tape for an original tape & cover job - however I've repaired a ton!! Use the paper tape - it lasts forever . For some reason the mesh doesn't hold onto the mud for long. I've seen office buildings (in the corners and flats) having multiple repairs made in the same spots due to the mesh stuff giving up the dried mud.
 
  #8  
Old 09-09-03, 05:49 PM
brickeyee
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Pre-mix shrinks and cracks more than setting. The mesh works better with setting. Mesh is not recomended with pre-mix, only with setting. Paper does not work well with setting. I prefer mesh and easysand20 setting since in a few hours a patch can be finished and the result is stronger than premix. On 3/4 inch plaster on gyp lath you can omit the tape completely. The setting will key in the crack. Drywall is not thick enough for a good bonding surface, so I use the mesh tape.
 
  #9  
Old 09-09-03, 08:49 PM
hadvisor
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allright, you guys armed me with good info. This will be a project for this weekend. I can find anything I need at a home depot or something like that, right??
 
  #10  
Old 09-10-03, 06:18 AM
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Ive never had a problem with mesh tape with any kind of mud. If the tape joint cracks out there is another problem.
 
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