Hello everyone. Today, I read through all the vinyl siding threads under the DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Build supercategory and figured this forum (Walls & Ceilings... Lumber & Paneling was my second choice) might be the best to post this in. I'm about to tackle new windows and siding for my home and have some questions. First, some background on my home: . ranch-style, 2x4 construction, approximately 30 years old . interior: paper-faced 3-1/2" insulation in wall cavities + 1/2" drywall (5/8" on ceilings) . exterior: fiberboard sheathing + tar paper + 12" x 16' hardboard lap siding . house is well-ventilated at eaves and ridge (did this last year - new roof) I'm not crazy about fiberboard, but I guess it's considered structural sheathing (?). It seems to be in good shape (solid when I knock on it). The hardboard lap siding is in good shape too, other than needing paint, but I'm going to go with a low-maintenance upgrade with the vinyl siding. I'm going to put in Pella Pro-Line 450 aluminum-clad series windows. Most of the sizes that I need are in stock at either Menards or Lowes, with 4-9/16" jambs. Their exterior frames extend 1-3/8" out from the nailing fins. I've been doing some reading on this job, and some reading here, and I'm getting a lot of varied information on things like foam sheathing, house wraps, etc. etc. I'm inclined to go this route: 1) Pull the hardboard siding off. 2) Install the windows, these would then be flush with the interior finished walls. 3) Install 1/2" or 3/4" foam of foil-faced foam sheathing. Tape seams. 4) Install siding. The siding has about a 1/2" profile (Dutch Lap). I like the idea of a house wrap (Tyvek, etc.), but it seems redundant with foam sheathing. Plus, I live near a somewhat busy road, and I'm thinking the foam sheathing might cut down on some of the noise (and improve the home's R-Value, probably currently at R-11). What do you guys think? Thanks... Also, I got a price on Pella Pro-Line 6-9/16" jambs for one of my common sizes and it's about $30 more (special order). Another option is to leave hardboard up and foam sheath the house out for the wider jambs? P.S. - Here are some of the better links I've picked up from various posts here...I'll be sure to read through them (that one at taunton.com is pretty good). [URL=http://www.vinylsiding.org/install/tools.htm]Vinyl Siding Installation Made Easy With resources from the Vinyl Siding Institute [/URL] [URL=http://popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/home_improvement/1996/9/vinyl_siding/]Popular Mechanics: Installing vinyl siding[/URL] [URL=http://www.certainteed.com/pro/siding/ctsiding/installation.html]CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Manuals and Instructions[/URL] [URL=http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00110.asp]Vinyl Siding Done Right[/URL]

I was in the process of replacing a vinyl floor and pulled off the baseboard trim and noticed mold under it on the drywall. The drywall itself is brittle and crumbles when you pick at it. I know there is water damage from the other side of the wall as it is at the same level as our deck and has no flashing installed. We are going to be repairing the exterior damage but I need to do the inside first as we have already started this flooring project. The wall in question is about 6ft long and has a window in it that is approx 18 inches off the floor. There is 2 layers of plastic behind the drywall and behind that insulation. My plan is to cut out the lower portion of the drywall (about 8 inches or so) along the full length of the wall, lifting the vapor barrior to get at the studsrepair the damaged studs with epoxy if necessary, nail back down the vapor barrior and scab in a new piece of drywall and finish off. Does this sound feasible?? I must add that I have never done this before but I have an understanding of how things work. Am I better off calling a contractor?