> >
>

# Suspended ceiling border problem

#1
12-30-03, 03:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 374
Suspended ceiling border problem

Hi-

I'm putting a suspended ceiling in my basement. I got the graph paper out and figured out the placement of the main beams, and T's so that the border on the long side of the room will be the same as the other long side. Ditto for the short sides.

I have a question though. I'm running the first main beam along the long axis of my rectangular room. When I started the first section of my main beam I cut it so that one of its 4' T slots would be 1' 6" from the edge of the wall because that's the border I need along the short edge of my rectangular room. I then attached a 12' section to that, and I have less than 12' to get to the opposite end of my room, 46" actually.

Here's my dilemma. If I just cut a 46" main beam and snap it to the main beam that I have hung already, I'm not going to have a 4' T slot 1'6" from the opposite edge of my wall. But if I cut a section of main beam so that I have a 4' T slot 1' 6" from the edge of the wall, I won't be able to "hook" my 46" piece to the rest of the main beam because I'll have to cut off the other "hook" on the 46" piece in order for it to fit in the 46" space.

So what do I do? Do I just cut the 46" piece as necessary and just make "butt ends" on the main beam because I won't be able to get the piece to fit any other way? I do want the borders on opposite sides of the room to be equal........

Steve

#2
12-30-03, 08:04 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 589
steve,
It will only work out to have even borders short and long side if the remainder of the equation Length/48 is equal to 36" and w/24 is a remainder of 12"....It is unusual to have the borders in both directions to be equal........If it did work out to 36" on the long run, I recommend you add a tile to the row and you'll end up with 3'6" tiles......

layout:
length divided by 4'....remainder /2 (B) is border row...
(add 24" to first tile if B is less than 24"

width divided by 2'....remainder /2 (C) is border row.
(add 12" to first row if C is less than 12"

write back with more information if the grid still seems like a puzzle.

#3
12-31-03, 07:55 AM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 374
Continued....

I'm using 2' x 2' tiles. I guess I should have mentioned that!

Let's just use my example along the long axis of my room just to keep it simple, and I'll use my real numbers this time, instead of made up ones. Basically, along the long axis of my rectangular room, I'm going to have a 1' 5 2/16" border at each end. My main beams will run along the long axis of my rectangular room. I have no problem understanding how to calculate what the border should be.

The problem I'm running into is that I am currently putting up the first main beam. One end of the main beam is cut so that one of the 4' T slots is 1' 5 2/16" from the short wall so that I can have my 1' 5 2/16" border when I put the 4' T in. Then I have a 12' beam added to that cut main beam. Now I have about 46" inches to go to reach the opposite wall.

If I cut a 46" main beam to fill that space, none of the 4' T slots (which are 6" apart along the length of the main beams) will be exactly 1' 5 2/16" from the end of the opposite wall. There's one that is close, but not exactly.

What I'm wondering is this: If one builds a suspended ceiling with planned borders, it doesn't seem possible to have 2 opposite borders EXACTLY the same width because it would seem highly unlikely that by the time you get to the other end of your room, that one of those 4' T slots would be EXACTLY 1' 5 2/16" away from your other wall AND be the length you need to reach that less than 12' distance to finish the main beam (in my case 46" long). Is this assumpion correct?

Does this make sense? : )

Steve

#4
12-31-03, 04:30 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,722
I think what you need to do is find the center of the long axis and either have the center of the center tile at that point or else have two tiles meet at that point. I haven't done the math to see which is true in your case but you can do that. Position the main runner accordingly and add other pieces at each end as is appropriate. When you run out of full length pieces then cut the appropriate ends off of each remaining end so that you can mate the last two pieces. you might be able to cut each end out of one single piece with a piece left over that has neither male nor female, A or B ends or what ever you want to call them.
I understand perfectly what I mean.
Do you?

#5
12-31-03, 07:54 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 589
steve,
yes it is possible.
the measurements must be precise, math accurate, and cuts exact.....

some potential causes :
measuring across the floor will give an inaccurate ceiling layout.
main been slides in either direction on the wall channell.
running the main beams at slight angles...
using the measurement of one side of the room for all main beams.

off a 1/4" to 1/2" is not going to be noticable...

easiest route from here.

measure the distance from the closest 6" slot on the 46" piece to the wall....If the distance is less than 1'5 1/8" subtract it from 1'5 1/8" and cut half the answer from the beginning of your first main beam. the borders will then be exact. if it is more then goto the next slot and use the above formula.....

#6
12-31-03, 09:20 PM
LBruce
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Ualdriver:
I would guess that you are approximately 5" off you measurement some where. If you have calculated the room correctly and you have 1'-5 1/8" on each end, per your calculations, you should have 41 1/8" left and not 46". This 41 1/8" measurement would be one 2' tile and 1'-5 1/8" = 41 1/8".
Good Luck.

Bruce

#7
12-31-03, 09:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 233
Take a 12' main, measure 1'5" from the first SLOT that will allow you to cut the rail (You'll be cutting about 7" off the end) Fill the rest of the space at the other end with whatever you need to make it to the opposite wall. One seam. Only cut the rails where they meet walls. Me thinks you are over engineeering this... good luck!

#8
01-01-04, 07:26 AM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 374
thanks

Thanks everyone.........I think I have it figured out.....I think!

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off