cutting out studs for a window
#1
02-04-04, 02:18 PM
cutting out studs for a window
Hi,
I put a hole in my wall to build a window or opening in the wall between my kitchen and livingroom to open up the place alittle. I have 2 studs in the middle on this window or "hole in the wall" as i put it. I have an upstairs and was told I needed to use some kind of support if I am going to cut the studs out. Any one know how to do this?
I don't want to do it if it is going to be a major project though.
We have a neighbor ( not a close neighbor, he lives at the end of our block) who "put a hole in their wall" at the same place but took out the studs. Our houses are identical so I thought it would be possible to take the studs out with out doing anything to the upstairs, provided I find out what I need to use for support. I can't ever find the man home who owns the house (he lives next to this house, he is fixing it up to sale.) so I can ask him how he did it.
I bet dh would have wished I didn't look in the window at what that man did because now I want no studs.... it does look better without. The whole house looks great! you should have seen it before this man started fixing it up to sale. I very jealous now, I want that house
lol.
I put a hole in my wall to build a window or opening in the wall between my kitchen and livingroom to open up the place alittle. I have 2 studs in the middle on this window or "hole in the wall" as i put it. I have an upstairs and was told I needed to use some kind of support if I am going to cut the studs out. Any one know how to do this?
I don't want to do it if it is going to be a major project though.
We have a neighbor ( not a close neighbor, he lives at the end of our block) who "put a hole in their wall" at the same place but took out the studs. Our houses are identical so I thought it would be possible to take the studs out with out doing anything to the upstairs, provided I find out what I need to use for support. I can't ever find the man home who owns the house (he lives next to this house, he is fixing it up to sale.) so I can ask him how he did it.
I bet dh would have wished I didn't look in the window at what that man did because now I want no studs.... it does look better without. The whole house looks great! you should have seen it before this man started fixing it up to sale. I very jealous now, I want that house
lol.
#2
02-04-04, 03:46 PM
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You definitely don't want to remove those studs unless you know for sure that it isn't a load bearing wall. If it is, you'll need to frame in a header to carry the load the studs are carrying now.
#3
02-05-04, 07:00 AM
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This is what wall framing with an opening and header that Dave alluded to should look like:
http://www.hometips.com/hyhw/structure/114wall.html
A header in a 2X4 wall should have a 1/2" plywood spacer between two 2X8s or whatever you're using for the header to make up 3.5" inches, the width of the 2X4 framing.
Good Luck!
http://www.hometips.com/hyhw/structure/114wall.html
A header in a 2X4 wall should have a 1/2" plywood spacer between two 2X8s or whatever you're using for the header to make up 3.5" inches, the width of the 2X4 framing.
Good Luck!
#4
02-12-04, 07:37 AM
if you don't know what its holding
you can't size the beam! You have to figure out what if anything it is holding.
(1) is there a level of the house above this or is this just a one story.
(2) if it is supporting floors or roofs above you are going to need to measure the spans that are tying into this. Once you have the supported span information you can calculate the loads and size a beam that will support the load. You can't just assume that any 3.5" member (like a 2 2x8's) are going to do the job.
(3) if this isn't load bearing then a "cripple" header may work. This can be thought of as a 2 x4 laid on flat. This depends on the span of the opening as well. Some areas will make you double after about 6' or so.
Greg
(1) is there a level of the house above this or is this just a one story.
(2) if it is supporting floors or roofs above you are going to need to measure the spans that are tying into this. Once you have the supported span information you can calculate the loads and size a beam that will support the load. You can't just assume that any 3.5" member (like a 2 2x8's) are going to do the job.
(3) if this isn't load bearing then a "cripple" header may work. This can be thought of as a 2 x4 laid on flat. This depends on the span of the opening as well. Some areas will make you double after about 6' or so.
Greg
#7
05-18-04, 01:06 AM
Member
I was thinking about that...after I did this. I guess I was more focused on getting the right height (47") than the double sill...and since the new window will have its nailing flange, I figured it'll be supported on all 4 sides, not just sitting on the sill. Thats kinda why I went with 1 sill ..and for 1.5" more insulation. That room (DR) was always cool, with only 1 heat register in the ceiling.
