Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Need ceiling to log beam finish ideas


mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-07-04, 03:11 AM   #1  
mlminin
Need ceiling to log beam finish ideas

New construction.... I have drywalled ceilings with log beams. The drywall isn't right up next to the logs in most places but I can feel cold air escaping into the room in some of the areas.

How do I seal off the gap to prevent air entering or leaving as well as "critters" entering?

Caulking of some sort? I don't plan to use trim where the ceiling and logs meet, btw. Also, I haven't painted yet.

 
Sponsored Links
awesomedell's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,425
MO

02-07-04, 06:33 AM   #2  
When I've done ceilings of this type we use vinyl J-bead on the edges of the sheets that abutted the beams, which left a uniform edge between the beams & the drywall, then we caulked the small gap between the vinyl bead & the wood, textured & painted. Since the lid is already hung, don't think you'd be able to install the bead and unless you want to go with some sort of trim there to hid the gap, I think caulk is going to be your only option.

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-07-04, 07:39 AM   #3  
If it's close, caulk it. If it's not then you will have to flat tape against the log first then caulk it. Is it a straight beam or a rough log?

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-07-04, 10:41 AM   #4  
mlminin
Is it a straight beam or a rough log?
They are straight, rough-sawn logs. They have two coats of polyacrylic on them. There is absolutely no gap in some places and 1/2" gap in others. In some places there is rolled insulation above the gags, and in others, ceiling joists.

Because I haven't done this before, I don't know how well the caulking will adhere with gravity and all, especially against the insulation. Maybe the caulking will pull the insulation downward pr because of gravity, it might start hanging down and out of the gap? Also, I don't want the caulking to shrink and leave me with another 'fix-it' job.

If there are any 'tips and tricks' that would be helpful for a first-timer, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thank you very much.

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-07-04, 11:34 AM   #5  
You will have to flat tape against the log and caulk. If the caulk shrinks, caulk it again.

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-07-04, 12:32 PM   #6  
mlminin
'flat tape' means ?

I'm sorry... Will you please explain to me what 'flat tape' means? I was thinking that you meant that I need to put tape on the log so that I have less clean-up, but if that is the case, I don't know how I would 'flat tape' the caulk.

B]What kind of caulk do you recommend? Someone told me to get a 'good quality' caulk, which would produce less shrinkage. Agree?[/B] I really know so very little about this stuff and appreciate your help.


Thank you.

 
skl's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 25
MA

02-07-04, 02:30 PM   #7  
Go back to the old days... Log homes use chinking. Take a look at
http://permachink.com/

hope it helps.

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-07-04, 02:35 PM   #8  
mlminin
Hey!!! PermaChink! That's an idea! It's just a little area, but why not?! I have some chinking to do on one 7' 1/2' wall in the bathroom. I could use the same chinking on those log beams in the kitchen.


My brain sure gets stuck sometimes.
Many thanks for everyone's help.

~Marcia

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-08-04, 06:02 AM   #9  
Just so everyone else knows, flat taping is when you put paper drywall tape flat against the wall and as close to the log or whatever that needs covering.

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-08-04, 03:10 PM   #10  
mlminin
I've been thinking about it and am still considering using caulking. Any suggestions as to what type I should use? I've seen caulking and I go away thinking....

About the flat tape... To be sure I understand correctly... Are you saying that I would put the tape along the raw edge of the drywall, (well, actually, inside of the raw edge), and butt it to the log? (The tape would be perpindicular to the log.) If that is the case, then the 0 to 1/2" gap will not be visible; it would be above the tape. I think I must be missing something. Can you explain it again for me? Thank you for your patience.

Thank you

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-08-04, 03:29 PM   #11  
You put tape parallel to the log only on the drywall and butt into the log as close as you can get it. It will cover any gaps you have. You have to caulk where the tape and log meet because it will crack. For a visual make a fist with your left hand, thats the log. Make your right hand flat, thats the tape. put the two together.

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-08-04, 04:23 PM   #12  
mlminin
Okay. I understand what you are saying, I think. But....

The tape is serving as a false ceiling to cover the gap, right?

The tape that covers the gap will have nothing behind it. (the gap will beabove the tape, right? So, with nothing behind (or above) the tape, wouldn't the 1/2" or so of tape that isn't glued to drywall, bend toward the floor eventually? Like after painting or just 'time'?

Do I caulk into the gap before applying the tape? I'm confused. If the tape is to cover the gap, what is the purpose of the caulk?

You have to caulk where the tape and log meet because it will crack.
What will crack?

I am so sorry that this isn't plain to me. It takes me awhile to catch on. I want to do it right.

Thank you for your help.

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-08-04, 05:09 PM   #13  
Don't worry, if you've never seen it before its hard to imagine. It's hard for me to describe it. You are right. The 1/2 inch gap needs to be filled before you tape. I recommend using 20 min. quick set. Mix it pretty thick. It should dry reletively flush. If it sags a little then you can scrape it down. The place where you caulk is where the tape meets the log.

 
mlminin's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-08-04, 05:22 PM   #14  
mlminin
I'll give this a try and see how it goes. Maybe I'll do a 'practice' piece somehow or other.


Thank you for your help and patience.

 
coops28's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,752
KS

02-09-04, 05:50 AM   #15  
No problem. I hope it works out for you. Did you figure out the texture you are going to use?

 
Popeye68's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-09-04, 08:01 AM   #16  
Popeye68
You might want to try some expandable spray foam in the larger cracks to insulate and seal this area.

 
Search this Thread