drywall

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Old 02-18-04, 08:12 AM
pondcrest
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Lightbulb drywall

I am re-drywalling a bedroom. I have tore out all old drywall to insulate except the ceiling. I have some drywall the previous owner left that is 4x8x1/4" can I use this to drywall over the old ceiling and should I go the opposite direction when I put up this new. Need some pointers here. Help.
 
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Old 02-18-04, 09:35 AM
awesomedell's Avatar
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Hello & welcome aboard.

I wouldn't recommend using the 1/4" rock on the lid, just too thin and odds are it'll break in the hanging process, especially if it's been around awhile.

Unless you've got blown-in insulation above this lid, I think at this point I'd go ahead & tear it out, in the long run it'll make your life easier, IMO. But if there's an attic above this with the B/I Insul., overlay the existing ceiling.

Thickness of the lid rock will be determined by the joist spacing, with 16" centers you can use 1/2", if joists are above that say 24" o/c, then you need to put up 5/8", otherwise it'll sag on you. Walls are the same deal, but nearly all walls are on 16"centers so 1/2" is the norm.

When you hang the ceiling run the new drywall perpendicular to the joists, if it was done right originally, it'll be hung this way. Run your sheet so all butt joints land in the middle of a joist & don't have them in the same spots as the old ceiling, do the same with any rip joints you have.

Easiest & fastest way to hang a lid is to have a partner & a set of benches or sawhorses with a sturdy walk board , adjusted so you're standing with your head 1/2" below the joist height. (Make sure to have joists locations marked on the wall on both sides of the room before you start.) Both of you should be on the white side of the sheet, facing the same direction, holding the sheet w/the same hand. Step up on the walkboard together, now roll the sheet over your heads simultaneously and press it up to the joists with your arms & then use your head to hold it in place and start screwing it up. We always do 5 screws per joist, one in each recess & 3 evenly spaced across the field. Make sure your screws or nails are sunk just to where the face paper is dimpled, without breaking the facepaper. If you do break the paper, sink another fastener about 1-1/2" to 2" away from it.

Don't line the butt joints up if you have to have any and if possible don't have any. Make sure your recessed seams are tight together.

Of course you can forego all that fun & just rent a panel lift from a local rental yd to lift the sheets & hold them in place while you screw them off, but where's the enjoyment in that, & you'll still need a hand getting the sheets into place on it.

Also prior to starting out, get an exact measurement along all 4 walls of the room, odds are the room isn't perfectly straight, so you'll end up having to angle cut either some butts or rips to make it all fit nicely.


Hope that helps out, let us know if you've still got questions.
 

Last edited by awesomedell; 02-25-04 at 07:36 PM.
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