Load Bearing Wall


  #1  
Old 02-07-00, 06:59 PM
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Looking for some help in finding out how large of a beam is needed to replace a interior wall. I have a single story house built in 1956. It is a modular home built by National Home who are no longer around.
The wall in guestion is 28 feet long. the roof of the house is also the ceiling. there is no attic. the house is built on a slab.
the wall goes up to the ceiling. It has a single plate on top. Everthing tells me it is not a load bearing. But then over the doors there is a header. Looking to find out what size beam would be needed to replace this without putting supports in the middle
 
  #2  
Old 02-09-00, 03:46 AM
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Kar:
I am not trying to be a wise guy, but you cannot afford the clear span beam you are asking about. A 28' clear span beam would have to be steel, (that would be the cheapest) and that would be many thousands of dollars including taking off the roof of your house to put it in. Clear span wood would be even more expensive. If yu want to
take out a wall, you will need support posts.
Good Luck

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Jack the Contractor
 
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Old 02-09-00, 08:29 AM
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Jack,
How about a 8 to 10 foot span in a LBW, can you give a beam that woul work for that??

Mike
 
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Old 02-09-00, 04:00 PM
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Mike:
For a short span or say up to 16 feet, take
two 2x10's, and sandwich in a piece of 1/2"OBC board between them and nail them all together using #16 sinkers, nailed from both sides. You will need posts of 4x4's. Does this help you. Good Luck

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Old 03-09-00, 07:53 AM
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I, too, want to open up two rooms. My ? is can I cut into the frame and remove up to ten feet on an outside wall without doing some kind of structural damage? My home is two-story with an attic.
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-00, 06:29 PM
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Yes.

Could you try to be a little more specific with your question? I can give you a very detailed answer if I knew a little more about what you want to accomplish.

Try listing this as a new question, maybe.

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  #7  
Old 05-03-04, 11:10 AM
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I have a related question.

I want to cut an opening in an interior load-bearing wall. The wall is on the second floor and the section I am interested in is an uninterrupted 12 foot section.

Trouble is, my finished window opening is a little bit bigger than 16 inches square and one of my studs is in the way. (Making the opening smaller is, unfortunately, not an option).

The answer couldn't possibly be as easy as simply removing a stud and letting the rest share the additional load. (Could it? Here's hoping!)

The next easiest thing would be to put a header in, especially if I could put it in halfway up the wall. Would that work? What kind of header would I need?

Otherwise, what is the correct method?

Thanks!
 
  #8  
Old 05-03-04, 11:45 AM
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uhendel,

Hello and welcome aboard!

You should install a header above where you plan to install the new window. The width of the rough opening for the window would determine the approriate sized header to install, but as a general rule if the opening is 30" wide or less you could go with a sistered 2"x6" or 2"x8" would be even better. You need to put in cripples, these are short studs cut to length to fit between the top of the window header and the top plate and a king stud is placed on either side of the opening.

You should take at look at this page here on the diy.com site, it will explain in more detail. http://www.doityourself.com/wall/fwallstudwindow.htm

Post back if you still have questions and good luck.
 
 

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