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Ceiling Max


jkw3tx's Avatar
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10-28-04, 10:47 AM   #1  
Ceiling Max

Has anyone tried the product ceiling Max for ceilings in basements,etc.
It looked interesting to me( I hate suspended ceilings) and I'd like to avoid a previous disaster in doing a ceiling. I've done drywall and suspended ceilings.

 
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10-29-04, 10:00 AM   #2  
jkw3tx,

I'm curoious, you make a statement about using CeilingMax then follow it up with "It looked interesting to me( I hate suspended ceilings)"

It is a "Low-Profile" method of a suspended ceiling look - Just no wires! It is to make installation easier and faster when you don't want to spend allot of time celaning up drywall mess!

"The CeilingMAX user-friendly grid system was designed to make installing an acoustical panel ceiling system faster and easier than ever before. The "snap-in" assembly technology allows the system to mount directly to joists, or to a plaster or drywall ceiling, eliminating the need for suspension wires."

What exactly are you wanting to do. Since you have experience at drywall and suspended ceiling applications, choose the best one for your application.

Hope this helps!

 
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10-29-04, 11:59 AM   #3  
ceiling

First time I did a suspended ceiling it fell down on top of my parents and grandparents when they visited- I liked the snap in idea. I just wasn't sure how "easy it was to use".
JKW

 
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10-29-04, 04:03 PM   #4  
well....I just finished a day of putting this stuff up. It is spendy that's for sure. I've got $1000 spent for 2 bedrooms, family, and bath.
It looks good, but took a while to get the hang of. I really don't think it saves time vs a regular suspended, but probably faster that drywall. It took me about 5 hours to do half the family room so it looks like I have a long weekend ahead of me.

One thing I didn't like is that I have engineered floor joints spaced 24" OC. I wasn't able to run the top hangers parallel with the joists (spacing didn't work). I had to run them perpendicular which left 24" between screws. I doesn't seem to be sagging, but time will tell.
Any questions let me know.

 
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11-01-04, 11:18 AM   #5  
Shadowman
I'm really interested in this. I've started finishing my basement and it's only got 7' 2" clearance. I wanted a suspended ceiling for access reasons but of course that'd take 3-5" minimum off my height and there's still flooring to consider. Went over their webpage, looks like the hardware ends up being twice as much as a normal suspended ceiling but I'm thinking it'll be worth it. Thanks for mentioning it!

 
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11-07-04, 09:22 AM   #6  
so far

It is expensive- but what isn't now days. Yesterday I put up the outer rim and it went very quickly. Tommorow I'll do the ceiling itself. So far it's easier to work with than the metal rods and wiring of a suspended. My ceiling was also low so that's what caught my eye.
JKW

 
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11-11-04, 12:37 PM   #7  
Did the work

Sorry- it took a few days to get back to the computer- work, anyway- I put up my ceiling on monday and it looks really good and was fairly easy to put up.
i was very pleased at the time and effort involved.
Yes it is pricy but I like the look for the space I had to work with.
I definetly recommend this product.
JKW

 
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12-07-04, 09:44 AM   #8  
Ceiling Max $$ ??

Hello,
Several of you have mentioned that the Ceiling Max product is expensive. I assume that this is compared to a standard suspended product. I too am in the process of sfinishing my basement and have planned for the Ceiling max product. At first glance it appeared to be quite affordable. My space is ~400 sp.ft not including boxed in heating ducts totaling ~60 sqft. I have roughly guesstimated $350 for tiles and all ceiling max product.

Are the spaces that you are finishing much larger? Or have I grossly miscalculated?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks

 
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12-07-04, 09:48 AM   #9  
pecochran1,

Guesstimating will get the best of you. I would suggest that you go to this link of Ceiling Max and really figure out what you need.

Others had mentioned allot of area to cover.

http://www.ceilingmax.com/how.htm

Hope this helps!

 
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12-07-04, 10:36 AM   #10  
It does help.

Thnak you

 
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12-07-04, 10:48 AM   #11  
Shadowman
Yes that is compared to a standard drop ceiling. I'm doing a 12x32 room, 384sqft and it's $385 for the CeilingMax (2x4 tiles, add $55 for 2x2). That doesn't include the cost of the tiles. If I recall it was only about $225 for the hardware for a standard drop ceiling. It's definately more expensive but what's affordable is really based on your own finances.

 
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01-04-05, 06:47 PM   #12  
gascitysmitty
Ceiling Max and a basement family room

I have a standard ranch with a 3/4 basement that has been finished into a family room. I've read where the Ceiling Max system needs no leveling, and my house was built in '61, but was built very well.

So do I need to pre-laser level or start putting this stuff up?

 
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01-04-05, 06:50 PM   #13  
gascitysmitty,

Nope! Take a look at this linbk and look at the install.

http://www.ceilingmax.com/

Hope this helps!

 
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01-09-05, 01:44 PM   #14  
skotee
Same as CeilingMax BUT CHEAPER!!

I did some research and found a similar product to CeilingMax but CHEAPER!
It's called CeilingLink. www.kensa.com I couldn't believe it was as cheap as it was. It actually uses 1 master runner for both the top, bottom and cross tee. Has anyone tried this? I think I might order it for one small room in my basement and see how Ilike it. The hardware is about 2/3rds cheaper 3.60 for an 8 ft runner compared to 8.39 from CeilingMax.

 
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01-09-05, 07:23 PM   #15  
couple of concerns:

what is used around the perimeter?

the cross tees are cut to length from the master. That is a LOT of cutting.

 
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01-09-05, 07:32 PM   #16  
dtro,

You're right!

They do sell an L channel for the perimeter. $2.80 per 8 lnft.

Besides the overall cost is more and it is time consuming. You have to buy 2 mains to do this application - cost $3.60 per 8 LnFt - $7.20!! Once you start adding that up, CeilingMax is less and you still have to buy panels for either one so where is the overall cost savings using CeilingLink?

Not a good deal IMHO at all.

 
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01-10-05, 05:39 AM   #17  
skotee
How do you figure?

Extra cutting aside, it's not that much more once you get a system down.
The cost is cheaper. Go to both websites and calulate the amount of material(minus the tiles) for a 100sq ft room. The cost don't compare.

 
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01-10-05, 05:51 AM   #18  
skotee
Here are my numbers

This is what I caculated for a 100sq ft room.
CeilingMax $235.95 (not including tiles)
CeilinLink $68.00 (not including tiles)

Both include the perimeter track for each system.
Am I missing something???

-Skotee

 
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01-10-05, 05:57 AM   #19  
skotee,

Read post #4 and #8 - I think your caluclations are incorrect but it's monday morning. Maybe I need some coffee. You may be right but I guess it is what you feel like buying and using. I prefer CeilingMax if I had a choice.

We are not here to push one product or another but I appreciate bringing it up as another option.

Have a great day

 
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01-10-05, 05:57 AM   #20  
skotee
I emailed CeilingLink

Okay, so I emailed the company to see what their reason was why I should buy CeilingLink over CeilingMax. Here was their response.

"Scott,

We compete with CeilingMax on price (about 45% cheaper) and simplicity (same piece used for top track, bottom runner, and cross tee, compared to 3
separate CeilingMax pieces). Also, there is less flexibility in the
CeilingMax "tinker toy" (i.e. every part snaps or fits to the others in the
same way) grid system compared to CeilingLink's system, which self-levels
and allows more variation, especially around the perimeter of an
installation where the ceiling panels need to be cut to size.

Thanks for your interest; let me know if you have any other questions."
Doug

 
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01-10-05, 10:23 PM   #21  
dougwill
Cost Comparison

Doug Aleshire,

CeilingLink costs about .60/square foot (not including ceiling panels) for the grid system using 2x4 panels, and about .70/square foot using 2x2 panels. Here's how the cost per piece of CeilingLink (sold on the web at www.ceilinglink.com/order.htm) compares to CeilingMax, priced today at my local Home Depot:
<font size=3><pre>
CeilingLink CeilingMax Difference
8' top track 3.60 5.97 66%
8' bottom runner 3.60 4.97 38%
2' cross tee .90 1.24 38%
8' L/U-channel 2.80 2.97 6%
</pre></font>

A top and bottom assembly of CeilingLink costs 7.20, compared to 10.94 for CeilingMax, a difference of 52%. Cutting a lot of cross tees is not a big deal if a power miter, table, or "chop" saw is used (with a fine-tooth blade). Cutting a few cross tees is not a big deal using an anvil-type hand cutting tool. Hope this info is helpful. Disclosure: my company (Kensa Inc) is the creator and distributor for CeilingLink.

--dougwill

 
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02-25-05, 07:40 PM   #22  
johndiy
Hello everyone

In my basement I'm framing around ductwork beneath the joists. I want the sides of the soffet to be drywall and I want to use either the Ceilingmax or Ceilinglink product for the bottom of the soffet.

What I want is a nice looking corner between the bottom piece of the drywall and L-Channel (Ceilinglink) or edge piece (Ceilingmax).

Any ideas on how I can do this so that the L-Channel (or edge piece) used to support the ceiling tile will line up with the edge of the drywall on the sides of the soffet?

TIA,
John

 
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02-25-05, 08:26 PM   #23  
johndiy,

I know with CeilingMax they have the wall channel. One method is that since you want to use drywall on the vertical you have a couple of options, IMO only.

Use the wall channel, which I think is 1/2". You could butt the 2 channels together. This may look better as long as you have a straight edge for attaching them. If there is any deviation, some paintable caulk could be done and it should look great.

The other is to use this,

http://www.nilesbldg.com/corner.html (look at the expanded flange #66)

http://amico-vinyl.com/pdf/drywall/7.pdf

I hope this gives you some ideas.

 
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02-27-05, 07:36 AM   #24  
johndiy
Doug,

Thanks for the idea & URLs. The drywall J-Channel looks interesting.

Now that I have several ideas on how to possibly finish this corner (with drywall on the verticle & drop tiles on the bottom) I can at least begin building out the soffets to size for these options.

Thanks again,
John

 
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02-27-05, 07:38 AM   #25  
johndiy,

You're very welcome!

Let us know how you made out.

Good Luck

 
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12-31-06, 07:20 PM   #26  
Ceiling max and duct work

Has anyone boxed in the duct work completely with the ceiling max system. Is there a link to show he how to do it

Thanks
Tim

 
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01-01-07, 07:20 AM   #27  
Done!

Wow! Where was this thread three months ago? I just finished using Ceiling Max in our basement. We live in a ranch style home with all the duct work running right down the center of the basement. I boxed in the duct work finishing with drywall and used the Ceiling Max system on the remaining two sides. Here's my take on the product:
1. Measure carefully to determine the exact number of each product you'll need - it stinks to have to run to the store for a piece in the middle of the project.
2. Level, level, level...it's time consuming, but anything worth doing is worth doing right!
3. Diagram your ceiling on paper first so you avoid tiny pieces - I got lucky with the ceiling around the stairs!
4. In the end, it looks fantastic!!!!
I am a 5'5", 42 year old woman. I was able to finish both ceilings myself and am very proud and pleased with the results!

 
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03-16-07, 03:37 PM   #28  
Ceiling Max

What a nice place here. About the ceilingmax system, I was told that even though I can use full 2' x 2' panels ( the ceiling area is 18' X 8') I should have a 1' border, any idea why? I just bought the stuff now I'm doing the research.

Thanks, Vern

 
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04-07-07, 07:51 PM   #29  
Another thought

I was also considering using this system in my kitchen until I ran across the old fashioned tin ceilings.

Check out the site americantinceilings.com. I used their snap lock system and the results are amazing.

 
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01-15-08, 11:19 AM   #30  
Has anyone else use this system and if so, has the price gone done?

Looking to install this system to save on headroom in the basement.

Thanks!

 
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08-18-08, 02:21 PM   #31  
ceilingmax grid covers

hey has anyone used the grid covers? and do you know how much they cost?:mask:

 
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01-25-09, 05:53 PM   #32  
has anybody tried to install recessed lighting fixtures with this ceiling max or ceiling links compared to the standered metal drop ceiling.any ideas on what would work better can lights or those 6/8 ft lights.remodeling 14x20 basement room ceiling is about 7 ft and also was looking into ceiling max/ceiling links or the standered metal drop ceiling but was not sure on the lighting and is it easy to install/remove the tile on the ceiling max/links system

 
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03-14-09, 07:42 PM   #33  
The runners that ceiling connect to have a 1' end on them so you can continue to go across the ceiling...I am putting one up now...hope this helps!

 
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03-14-09, 07:45 PM   #34  
I am fighting this right now...trying to put in 10 can lights and trying to figure out how to use the UTILITECH LIGHTS and the 24 inch hanger bars...Help!

 
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