Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Walls and Ceilings
Reload this Page >

drywall over plaster leaves unfinished doorframes

drywall over plaster leaves unfinished doorframes


Old 11-09-04, 07:48 AM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
drywall over plaster leaves unfinished doorframes

After buying a 1960's one bedroom apt and removing ancient vinyl wallpaper, my boyfriend and I had a lot of trouble fixing the plaster. We were told that replastering was more expensive than drywall and might not hold up over the years. On this advice, we put 3/4" drywall in the entrance hall and living room. I am not thrilled with the result, as particularly the entrance hall feels smaller. More importantly, the drywall stands out from the doorjamb almost 3/4", and all the exposed edges have a metal wrap on them, making the finish look more uneven.

Any ideas on how to finish the doorframes with a molding so you cannot see the drywall "sticking out?" The doorframes are typical 60's style metal set almost flush with the plaster. Thanks!
Sponsored Links
Old 11-09-04, 09:21 PM
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 9,483
You can build out the jambs to accommodate the thicker wall. You can cover plaster with a liner type of wallpaper designed to cover defects in a wall and permit painting. You could use 1/4 inch sheetrock to cover the walls with less thickness.

I have found that repairing plaster is not so difficult to do, and looks nice.

Hope this helps.
Old 11-11-04, 10:05 AM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a

Thanks for the reply. I don't know why 3/4" was used, not 1/4", but it is done now, so I will build out the jamb I guess. Any info on what this involves would be very helpful.

Also, not that we plan to anytime soon, but how difficult and expensive would it be to take down drywall from plaster? I imagine there would be a lot of damage to the plaster?
Old 11-11-04, 12:51 PM
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 143
Taking down the drwall from the plaster shouldn't be difficult. There are basically two different ways to do it... the rip and repair, which could cause a lot of damage to the plaster, or go around and unscrew all the screws, then just fix the holes and previous problems.
Old 11-25-04, 05:34 PM
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Murray, if I'm reading this right - you laid drywall on top of the existing plaster, right?

If that's the case, anytime you cover plaster walls with drywall (no matter the thickness) you will encounter problems - all of which can be overcome, fortunately. But not often easily.

If you butt the drywall up to the door and window casings, you will have a more "shallow" molding look. (I can't imagine what 3/4" drywall looks like up against these casings.) To overcome this, you can first remove the door casings and jambs - and replace with wider jams. That's side jambs and head jamb. And wide enough so the door casings will fit on top of the jambs and on top of the walls. Of course, in this case - you'll have to drywall right up to the jambs and then cover the drywall with the casings.

That presents another problem. Now your casing is set out further than the baseboard - further by the thickness of the drywall. Unless you remove the baseboard too (aaugh), that won't look so good either.

Another problem is with your electrical fixtures (if any). For the outlets and switches, you can purchase extenders. If you have any wall lamps... well, you get the idea.

Unfortunately, I've come across these problems many times. I usually (but not always) take one of two choices. The first choice is to gut the room. This is dirty and laborious. Remove the plaster and lathing. Replace with drywall after shimming the studding to where the finished drywall will line up flush with all the jambs. Although this is a lot of work, it always comes out looking good because you have new walls. In addition, running more electrical outlets (etc.) is relatively easy because everything is exposed.

The other method I've used is simpler but can still be time consuming - but if done right it can look just as good. And that is; veneer the walls. Skimcoat them with a setting type compound. Then apply a lite topcoat and sand smooth. If done right, it can be difficult for the average person to tell it apart from original plaster.

But before you veneer or even cover a wall, you must make certain the plaster walls are tight to the lathing - and that the lathes are tight to the studs. If not, secure them and then cover and veneer away.


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes