Hanging drywall - Gluing or Screwing?


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Old 02-05-05, 01:24 PM
chopper33
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Hanging drywall - Gluing or Screwing?

My basement is new construction and I am to the point where I am going to drywall. I am only drywalling the walls and using a suspend ceiling. I had an estimate done today for someone to come in and hang and tape the drywall for me. The guy told me he would use the least amount of screws as possible to hang the drywall, he said he uses glue and then puts in enough screws to hold the sheets in place while the glue dries. I had never heard of using glue before. He told me that the glue will hold forever and you have less mudding to do and no popping screws or nailheads. Sounds like a good idea I guess? If anyone has done this, what type of adhesive should I use if I try this myself?
Another question about this... Currently, I have kraft face R13 insulation already installed in the studs. The fold-over edges of the kraft faced insulation is overlapped between adjacent batts and stapled to the studs. He told me I would have to fix this if he uses glue for the drywall so the drywall would be glued directly to the studs. Does this raise the "Infamous" question of defeating the purpose of a vapor barrier when their will be possible gaps between the drywall and insulation after pulling the staples from the overlapped folded edges of the batts from the studs and then tucking the folded edges in between the studs? Hope this makes some sense!
He also talked about slight texturing of the walls after the drywall and taping was done. How does one go about doing this himself? Do you spray the stuff on and then use a trowel and slight sanding when dry?

Thanks,

Curious DIYer'
 
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Old 02-05-05, 03:25 PM
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I've done alot of jobs where they used faced batts on the exterior walls, it's usually stapled to the sides of the studs so that drywall glue can be used. I've got into this same discussions many times with GC's, homeowners, etc. To me you have to look at it this way, no matter what vapor barrier system you use, be it faced batts, or unfaced with a poly barrier over it, the barrier is going to be punctured by the fasteners. Personally if I'm specifing on a job I'll use the faced batts, stapled to the studs sides with the glue. You can not use glue with the poly barrier and I would much rather have the glue there if I'm putting my name on the job.

The glue must be in direct contact with the studs for the glue to be effective, otherwise the bond is only as good as what the drywall is glued to. It comes in tubes like caulking in the regular size and in a 1/2 gal tube, which is what pros generally use. You'll find it at most any lumber yd or home center, should say drywall adhesive on the tube.
 
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Old 02-05-05, 06:45 PM
chopper33
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Would you recommend using glue to a doityourselfer who has never used glue before for this application? How many screws do you need to put in to hold up a sheet of drywall? One on each corner and a couple in between? I had never heard of gluing drywall but the idea is great not having to hide all those screws!! Also, if I am planning on putting in a bathroom in my basement; would you put in all the plumbing and the shower, toilet before sheetrocking anything? I thought I could get a start on sheetrocking and wait to rock around where the bathroom is going to be until we have enough dough$$$$ to get the bathroom plumbed and furnished????????
 
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Old 02-05-05, 08:52 PM
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I'd definitely recommend using the glue, you may have to buy a large caulkgun to use with the 1/2 gal tubes, as many places only stock it in that size, but that's only a few bucks. Even with the glue I still like to screw every 6" at butt joints, rest of the studs one screw per stud in each recess and one screw in the center of the field per stud. Once the glue dries you can even pull the screws out of the sheet before you mud, the sheet won't come off the wall except in little pieces.

As to the new bath, you wouldn't want to rock the water wall until all the plumbing is done, but you could go ahead & do the other walls if you wanted. Something to keep in mind though, if you're planning on installing a tub or tub/shower combo unit you may need to leave some studs out in order to get the unit into place in the room. Another thing we always do, when installing a tub & shower unit is to notch the studs so that the unit sit flush with the wall. If you don't do this you end up with a 1/4" hump in the drywall where it meets to drywall. HTH, post back if you have more questions, just stay in this same thread.
 
 

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