Tongue and Groove Pine

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  #1  
Old 03-20-05, 06:18 PM
chopper33
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Tongue and Groove Pine

I have a small problem that needs a solution. I have a new contruction home and about 1/3 the way finished in my basement. I have all the framing and electrical finished. I had intentions to drywall all the basement walls but now I have decided to install tongue and groove pine behind my bar area (2 walls with about 80 sq ft). My framing is the typical 16" on center studs with 3 outlet boxes and one large switch box (4 switches) already in place and wired. I have come to find out that to install the tongue and groove pine vertically that I have to have studs also running horizontal to nail to. I do not want to remove the boxes and redo the electrical to add horizontal furring strips to nail to besides I have already finsihed drywalling the walls adjacent to the bar so if I did add the furring strips the drywall would be short on the adjacent walls by the thickness of the furring strips (I know, bad planning...). Could I add horizontal pieces of 2x4 in between the vertical studs every so often to use as a nailer? Another solution would be to install the pine diagonally but the wife is deadset against the idea. :mask:
 
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  #2  
Old 03-20-05, 08:17 PM
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Yes you can add 2x4 blocking horiz. at 24" oc., use 1x at the switch box,ooooooooooooorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, install it over drywall, especialy if it is a perimeter wall.
 
  #3  
Old 03-21-05, 06:26 PM
chopper33
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I don't quite understand what you mean by putting 1x by the boxes??? I had not thought of drywalling it first, if I do this will the nailing of the tongue and groove hold all that well in just drywall? Or did you mean putting in the 2x's first prior to drywalling and then the tongue and groove? :mask:
 
  #4  
Old 03-21-05, 06:28 PM
chopper33
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Oh, I forgot to ask about the depth of the installed boxes. They are set for 1/2" material. If I install drywall then the tongue and groove the boxes will be at a minimum 1/2 to 3/4" recessed from the surface of the tongue and groove. Will this be a problem? Can I get longer screws for the switch/receptacle plates to fit on that? :mask:
 
  #5  
Old 03-26-05, 10:37 PM
ckeeper
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if you put on drywall first, you could use adhesive to attach the t&g to the drywall. or use pywood the same thickness as your drywall first, and use this to nail on the t&g.

there are box extensiions that you can use to bring out the level of the boxes for the added thickness--or can you move the boxes out before you add the new layers? the boxes should extend to the surface for fire hazard.
 
  #6  
Old 04-28-05, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Farmersville Texas
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Not sure what the thickness of the T&G is your using but if you will go find some very cheap panneling , I mean the ugly stuff, it is usually paper thin. Get the 4x8 sheets and hang it on the wall first and then use adhesive to apply the T & G. If your T & G is 1/2 " you should see verry little recess at your boxes.
 
  #7  
Old 04-29-05, 02:27 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: iowa
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I would recommend 1/4 sheetrock then glue to the sheetrock. You can also do some nailing every 16 inches just for good measure. I did this on an existing wall around a firepalce and it worked great. The adhesive also looks better. Less nail holes.
 
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