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strapping a wall, horizontal or vertical?

strapping a wall, horizontal or vertical?

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  #1  
Old 06-03-05, 07:09 AM
qr409tz8
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strapping a wall, horizontal or vertical?

I have a couple rooms that are stripped to the studs and Im going to insulate and sheetrock them. The "studs" are 3x4 oak spaced anywhere from 20 to 28 inches. Being that they are only 3" deep I need to add atleast 1/2" to them for the 3 1/2" insulation to fit, so im planning on strapping the walls. Now the question is do I nail the strapping to the studs basicaly just making them thicker, insulate and sheetrock, or should I run them perpendicular to the studs every 16"? If I run them perpendicular I get a better spacing for screwing in sheetrock, but it also means my insulation needs to be squished down a little where it goes under the strapping... What do you guys think of this? Horizontal or vertical, that is the question.

Thanks for the input.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-03-05, 08:13 PM
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Vertical installation is preferred.
 

Last edited by twelvepole; 06-22-05 at 06:47 PM. Reason: Jokes & sarcasm can be interpreted a put-downs and are not allowed in forums
  #3  
Old 06-05-05, 02:44 PM
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I agree, just make the studs wider. You are either going to have to add studs for 16" oc or use 5/8 rock.
 
  #4  
Old 06-06-05, 09:49 AM
qr409tz8
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Huh... this is oddly contradictory to what everyone else has told me the past couple days... Most people seem to be advising strapping perpendicular to the studs for the same reasons you strap cielings perpondicular to the rafters. One of the big reasons for strapping horizontally seems to be that it provides the ability to planerize the wall by shimming the strapping for any studs that may not stick out as far as others.
 
  #5  
Old 06-06-05, 03:05 PM
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I hate to disagree with fellow members but I would install the strapping horizontaly. As you know that gives you better spacing for installation and may save you on sheetrock scrap. As you said it also helps to make a straighter wall. IMO 1/2" compresion of insulation is no big deal.

Oak is hard to nail so you may need to pre drill.
 
  #6  
Old 06-07-05, 02:39 AM
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When you strap, or in both cases,"furr", you need to provide for the nailing schedule, which is not 16"oc.

Installing a wood grid beneath a ceiling generaly preceeds ceiling tile, not drywall.

By the way, regarding uneven walls. Thats what they sell drywall shims for.
 

Last edited by twelvepole; 06-22-05 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Quoting entire post is distracting and redundant
  #7  
Old 06-22-05, 01:58 PM
neonhomer
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Originally Posted by Snoonyb
By the way, regarding uneven walls. Thats what they sell drywall shims for.
Unless you live in pittsburgh, no one has them and half the places i've talked to look at me as though i'm an idiot.
 
  #8  
Old 06-22-05, 06:50 PM
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You can find shims at 84 Lumber. I've seen bundles of them there.

For issues re: horizontal versus vertical installation of drywall on this website: http://doityourself.com/wall/installdrywall.htm
 
  #9  
Old 06-28-05, 02:10 AM
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We just finished doing what you're describing. We added 2" x 2" to the front of the 2" x 4" studs, just nailing them (predrilling holes, tho). Then, we insulated between, covered with poly and put up the drywall. jWe were doing this to extend the wall to accommodate new plumbing.

Piece of cake
 
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