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Basement Suspended Ceiling against Duct Work

Basement Suspended Ceiling against Duct Work

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  #1  
Old 09-24-05, 10:10 PM
tntkelly
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Basement Suspended Ceiling against Duct Work

Due to exposed gas and main water lines, I have opted to install a suspended ceiling in my basement. I boxed in a return vent line and the steel beam on one side of the basement, but was intending to put 2'x2' ceiling tiles under and on the "other" side of the room duct work. The duct work is 3/4 the length of the area (lengthwise), has all main electrical wiring and several waterlines running between to (supply and return) ducts (24" ducts). I can run the main tees outside and one between, but the width is very close to the limit. My main concern is how to transition from the horizontal tiles to vertical, covering the side of the duct.

The obvious solution is to frame it and drywall it in, but I would prefer to have access..... Does anyone have any ideas?

TnT
 
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  #2  
Old 09-25-05, 03:00 PM
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Yes, the obvious thing is to box it in and drywall it, which is the common practice in a situation like that. Not sure why you want access to that stuff, since many houses have basements with 100% drywalled ceilings (except for maybe a utility room) and no access to anything. You can't access the pipes and ducts in your walls, so its odd to me when people think they need access to pipes for some imaginary reason. They might leak is the usual reply, to which I'd say, "any of your pipes could leak, anywhere in the house." If you plan on tapping into them, for additional plumbing in the future, that's one thing. But drywall is cheap and it's not that big of a deal to tear out if need be.

Whew. That being said, the only thing I could think of as an alternate way to box them in and still keep them accessible would be to frame in the sides with 2x2's to create a series of small "sliding door-like openings" perhaps 12" high and 48" wide, with 2 pieces of paneling, glassboard or 1/4" tempered, which could act like miniature bypass doors, if they were about 10" x 24". You'd have to router a pair of dados in the top and bottom 2x2 framing to make a "track" for these panels to slide in. If the top dado was say, 3/4 deep, and the bottom dado only 1/4" deep, the panels could slip up into the top "track" and then sit down into the bottom track, kind of like a sliding window works.

Sorry, thats the best idea I could come up with for free.
 
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