Sheetrock for garage, 10' ceilings


Old 10-12-05, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
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Question Sheetrock for garage, 10' ceilings

Do they make 5'-tall sheetrock? With the 48" sheets, I'll stack two and be ~2' short, and have to cut a 3rd sheet in half. It would be nice to only have one horizontal seem along the wall.

Also, I noticed that Lowes has several types of sheetrock. Fire-resistant stuff, water-resistant stuff, etc. Which is recommended for garages? I use my garage as a home mechanic and the usual yard work stuff.
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Old 10-12-05, 02:33 PM
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They make 54" stuff but that only get you 9 feet. Going to have to suck it up and have an extra seem. Or you could stand it up. If its just your garage and you dont care as much about joints showing you could stand them up. Make sure your studs are as close to 16" on center and 48" as possible.

Get regular 1/2 inch rock.
Old 10-12-05, 03:45 PM
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Not the standard way to do it, but you could go with 12' long rock, cut it to 10' and put it up vertically. Obviously, you would end up with all vertical seams this way.

No insult intended, but you did put insulation in first, right?
Old 10-12-05, 06:24 PM
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I would hang the rock horizontally and put the 2' ripper at the bottom - that should give you the best looking job and it isn't really much harder to do it that way.
Old 10-13-05, 08:13 AM
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I'm in the process of putting up insulation right now. Hopefully I'll be done in a couple weekends, if I have enough time.

I suppose I'll just get whatever is the cheapest (per ft) sheets of 1/2" rock and end up cutting one row (and put that at the bottom?). As much work as I've done on this garage, I'd rather not have some obvious seems.

I'm not looking forward to sanding and painting the ceiling - any tips/tricks to make this easier? It's already taped/mudded.
Old 10-13-05, 08:38 AM
Join Date: Aug 2005
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I once was told by a pro that DIYer's should do all the work except drywall, because of the tedious/nasty work involved. After finishing this week, a 17 X 25 game room..... I remembered why he said that. The taping/mudding/sanding/finishing was the most tedious part of the process....

I've had good success with ceilings by using a sanding 'block" designed for working joint compound. The "sandpaper" is a mesh with abrasives imbedded in the fibers. When put on an extension pole, it did a pretty fast job of ridding my ceiling of the bumps/defects in the compound. Another advantage is that it doesn't clog up quickly. It was, though, a messy job.

I'm lucky as I live in a region where textured ceilings and walls are typical. I was able to shoot a fine orange peel finish followed by a dime sized knockdown finish that covers almost any defects in the finish.
Old 10-13-05, 02:35 PM
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I'd love to finish it w/ something textured, as long as it's not too expensive. Any links to stuff like you did?
Old 10-13-05, 03:28 PM
Join Date: Aug 2005
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You can do a google search for drywall texture and come up with dozens, if not thousands of places to check out.

Texturing can be as simple as "splatting" thinned compound on your surfaces to spray applied finishes of different sorts. The two finishes that I combined, orange peel and knockdown, are typical finishes often used but are easiest done with a texturing gun ($70 at your local box store - and requires an air compressor). However, I've done it with sea sponges, brushes, old carpet remnants, etc., to get a "different look". A $10.00 bucket, thinned out, will cover a lot of surface.

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