Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Interior Improvement Center > Walls and Ceilings
Reload this Page >

Some more general drywall-hanging questions

Some more general drywall-hanging questions

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-23-05, 07:42 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
Some more general drywall-hanging questions

1. When putting screws through the tapered manufactured edge, should I put them close to the edge (throught the tapered portion) or farther from the edge so it's through the 1/2" part?

2. When doing butt splices, up against ceilings/corners, etc, how much of a gap is "bad"? I'm finding that my ceilings aren't perfectly straight and the walls aren't perfectly square. Is a 1/8" gap here and there really tough to cover up when mudding/taping?

3. When putting in screws at a butt joint with a 2x4 stud behind it, how do you keep the rock from squishing out from between the paper? It's so close to the edge, even being very slow and careful I was having problems.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-23-05, 07:58 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: usa
Posts: 235
1. Through the tapered edge.
2. 1/8 is fine, if you keep it 1/8 inch everywhere most pro finishers would love you,lol. common saying in the business is tape is 2 inches wide and mud comes in 5 gallon buckets. I would say any thing over 1/2 is
"bad" as you have to prefill the joint and allow to dry a bit before taping it.
3. If you wait til the board on the other side of the butt joint is up, and screw them at the same time they don't do that as much, also you may be sinking the screws a hair too much.
 
  #3  
Old 10-24-05, 06:44 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,829
I would add make sure the screw head doesn't penatrate the paper. If it goes through the paper it loses 75% of its holding power.
 
  #4  
Old 10-24-05, 07:56 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
Originally Posted by marksr
I would add make sure the screw head doesn't penatrate the paper. If it goes through the paper it loses 75% of its holding power.
I'm trying hard to make sure that the screws don't go through the paper, but even with this drywall bit I have to be careful. A few of them when right through the paper, so I put another screw in a couple inches above or below it.

The ones at the ends where I was having trouble with the rock squishing out -- I started being really careful, and I *think* I wasn't overtightening, but still had issues.
 
  #5  
Old 10-24-05, 01:26 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
One more question I forgot:

I have a 10' x 24' wall on one side of the garage. Since 24' is an exterior dimension, I figured I'd get 12' rock and be able to stagger the butt joint seams by at least one stud. Well, turns out the interior dimension is closer to 24' than I thought - I won't be able to stagger the seams if I use the 12' rock.

How big of a deal will this be? I could cut one of the 12' pieces in half so I end up with 3 butt joints rather than just one (just for the middle row, and the upper and lower rows would be 1 butt joint) and they would be staggered. But that kinda defeats the point of getting the 12' sheets...
 
  #6  
Old 10-24-05, 04:39 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,829
Can you add a stud or two? That should solve the problem.
 
  #7  
Old 10-24-05, 05:11 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
Originally Posted by marksr
Can you add a stud or two? That should solve the problem.
I've already run a bunch of wires through there, but I'll see what I can do.
 
  #8  
Old 10-24-05, 07:29 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 411
When screwing into the bevel...

When screwing into the bevel, should the screw go in at an angle? So that it is square to the bevel?

This is the way I have always done it. This way, the head can sink into the paper the same as all the other screws (just barely).

Have I been doing it right?
 
  #9  
Old 10-25-05, 07:51 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
I added a couple 2x4s, just screwed into the existing studs. That allowed me to stagger the joints by a couple inches. Not much, but better than nothing!

Now if I could get my brother to stop breaking screw heads or punching them through the paper! haha You can definitely tell which side I was on.
 
  #10  
Old 10-25-05, 08:57 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,829
Originally Posted by Weez
Now if I could get my brother to stop breaking screw heads or punching them through the paper! haha You can definitely tell which side I was on.

You are doing it all wrong you are supposed to make your helper do all the heavy lifting
 
  #11  
Old 10-25-05, 05:34 PM
grouper
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
old sheetrocker

if you can rip the factory edges off the drywall where it butts to the wall and ceiling this depends on the height and width ceiling, wall anyway the drywall is harder at the edges. so screw an inch or so off its gonna be floated a min of 6 in also tape is 2 in long and 250 ft wide. dont worry it can be fixed just dont break the paper too much...
 
  #12  
Old 10-26-05, 08:18 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Wichita
Posts: 149
Originally Posted by grouper
if you can rip the factory edges off the drywall where it butts to the wall and ceiling this depends on the height and width ceiling, wall anyway the drywall is harder at the edges. so screw an inch or so off its gonna be floated a min of 6 in also tape is 2 in long and 250 ft wide. dont worry it can be fixed just dont break the paper too much...
English please?
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes