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Chipped/Pealed ceiling paint/skim coat


Old 12-12-05, 09:12 AM
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Chipped/Pealed ceiling paint/skim coat

I started a project that may be behond my abilities. I have limited mudding experience.
I have a problem with my living room ceiling. Multiple areas of ceiling paint began blistering off of the plaster. I scraped all of the blistering paint and was left with a ceiling with multiple areas of bare plaster up to 2ft x 3ft. I knew I had to fill those areas before painting.
I bought a tub of premixed spackling compound and began to fill with a 6 inch blade. After the first coat, I had large grooves and indentations everywhere. I sanded the heck out of them and was left with a lot of ridges where the mud did not cover the blistered area up to the painted area properly. I put on a 2nd coat and sanded again. I still have all sorts of little grooves and lines in the dried compound. If I sand any harder I will be able to see where the original blistered areas are.
I am pretty sure I need another coat of mud. I was thinking of using a thinned mud and rolling it on with a roller then using a squeegy type tool to smooth.
Anyone able to walk me through the final coat process. I assume I am not appling the mud smoothly enough.
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Old 12-12-05, 10:31 AM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,615
For starters get a bigger spackle knife I like the Allway ones in the Depot[cheap]. The biggest one is 10" though,but good enough for you. You may want to[it is not necessary]to slightly thin the mud just a little and listen up---- MIX IT WELL---- creamy is the word I am looking for. This makes a huge difference.

Get a tray[Depot red or yellow plastic, not a hawk] to hold the mixed up mud in and put it all over the area needing to be covered plus on to the paint a little,then remove it with the spackle knife at a low angle to the ceiling[handle close to the ceiling]. Put at least 2 fingers on the back of the knife blade and Press pretty hard. Put more pressure[fingers on this side] on the side you are moving away from Do not stop in the middle no matter what.

When doing the middle use even pressure on both sides. Don't leave too much or you will be sanding a lot. You only need the thickness of the paint at most Move over 1/2 the width of the blade 5" or so and repeat till done.. Leave the lines alone.

If you just can't help your self you can make repeated swipes on the area you are working on. This is probably going to need to be done. Just do the whole length and don't try to do a "spot"

Make sure to wipe the knife after each stroke on the edge of the tray, and don't even start until the ceiling is perfectly free of "junk" as I like to call it[little pieces of dirt and chips and stuff]

You will,in all likely hood, be able to just do the perimeter of the patch and have it blend in nicely. Put most of the mud on the side missing the paint and a little[2" or so] on the painted area and just run around the perimeter with the knife. If it doesn't look good you can then just fill in the middle that you didn't do.
Old 12-12-05, 11:02 AM
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Are you using spackling or joint compound? Some spacklings don't thin well.
I prefer mud thinned slightly - it applies easier.

How are you sanding? If you are sanding with a paper in your hand you might not get even sanding. A pole sander is ideal for this but you can take a block of wood and wrap the sandpaper around it. Without a stiff surface to hold the sandpaper you are apt to sand at an inconsistent rate - leaving an unlevel surface.
Old 12-12-05, 02:02 PM
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I have spackle. I will try thinning it a bit.
I have tried a hand sander. The kind where you put the paper in a little rubber grip device. Problem is the dust on the paper seems to render it useless. What do you think about using a sponge?
Old 12-12-05, 02:25 PM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
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Why don't you try the sponge and see how it works. You must have put it on pretty heavy. Sponge may be ok for the outside edge, but i wouldn't use it for a 6 sq. ft. patch. It can also leave traces of sponge material behind.

The pole sander marksr is talking about is not too expensive[maybe $6.00] in the depot.It goes on a paint stick.[Allway is the brand]

The pole sander is 3x as big and you do it from the ground. You can also use sanding screens, again, in the depot.It is like a tough screen, they do not load up with dust. The surface is not as smooth though. you may want to finish with sandpaper if you use them,but you don't need to.

I never had any luck with the rubber thing you are using. It is too small to so what you need it to do,especially overhead.

You are using to fine a grit of sandpaper try 60 grit to remove the majority and then maybe 120 to finish off.

Last edited by joneq; 12-12-05 at 03:40 PM.
Old 12-13-05, 06:52 AM
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Last night I used the sponge on about 1/3 of the ceiling to see what it would look like. It worked quite well in smoothing things out. However, I notice that the crevices are all filled nicely up to the edge of the crevice and not onto the painted surface. I must have washed away the feathered area that overlaps the painted surface. At this point there are no gaps and everything is smooth. Is the feathered in overlap area needed to keep the mud/paint from coming loose? I could go over the circumfrence of the creivice with a small knife if needed.
When I paint, should I prime the mud area once, then paint the whole ceiling, or just paint the ceiling once?
I appreciate all the help.
Old 12-13-05, 08:10 AM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,615
It will not help the mud to stay put. If the repair is perfectly level now,and com completely filled at the edge, anything else you add will = a hump. To put it on and take it all off to eliminate the hump seems a little much. If you add a microscopic amount it will not help if the perimeter decides it wants to show itself later on. If you can feel nothing between the repair and the paint leave it be. I would probably have bridged the two, but I have been doing it a long time and the repair would not be visible

You need to run your hand over the patch and feel for a hump or imperfect ins. It may look ok, and it may be ok,but once you prime it it is a problem to fix,especially if it is excess mud as opposed to lack of fill. Feeling is better than seeing imo.

Use a damp sponge to remove all the dust[if any] before priming

I would prime the patches separately then prime the whole ceiling including the patches. Do not skimp on the primer. I would use Bullseye 123. It is a primer sealer
Old 12-14-05, 11:22 AM
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I already have a gallon of Kilz2 water based latex primer. Should I exchange for Bullseye 1-2-3?
Old 12-14-05, 01:26 PM
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,615
I pretty much only use 123 so I can't really say, but if it is at all inconvenient to return it I guess it is ok. Just do the 2 coats on the spots[1 spot prime then the whole ceiling]

maybe other who have more experience with it will weigh in on how good or bad it is. I don't think it is really good or really bad---just adequate, nothing special,I guess. It is not junk. 123 is special stuff though. Usually no reason not to use it on most anything and under most any type of paint.

What kind of paint was originally on the ceiling,glossy,flat ceiling paint??????.

If the ceiling is in the vicinity of a kitchen make sure you clean it. Soilax Pro is the stuff to do it with. Not in the Depot[only paint stores].It would not hurt to clean it anyway.

Bottom line ==don't change it[kilz] unless someone else tells you to.

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