Beadboard sheet ceiling- what nails?
#1
01-30-06, 06:17 AM
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Beadboard sheet ceiling- what nails?
I'm going to using beadboard sheets, the thinner of 2 sizes available locally, to cover the exposed rafters on my screen porch. The few web sites I find specify using finishing nails to hold up beadboard ceiling but they also concentrate more on the individual plank type beadboard than the 4 x 8 sheets. Are finishing nails going to hold well enough for the sheets?
I'm thinking to rent a air nailer to do the job so want to be sure I get the right one.
Thanks much!
I'm thinking to rent a air nailer to do the job so want to be sure I get the right one.
Thanks much!
#2
01-30-06, 07:15 AM
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hi
if your going to mount 4x8 sheet on the rafter that runs across to have good nailling.
if not it will wave and buckle
i would recommend furring first
then used an air stapler for better hold
good luck
if your going to mount 4x8 sheet on the rafter that runs across to have good nailling.
if not it will wave and buckle
i would recommend furring first
then used an air stapler for better hold
good luck
#3
01-30-06, 07:35 AM
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The joists are spaced 2'. I thought that would be close enough to avoid sag, you think not? Would I be better off considering something else, maybe pine planks?
#4
01-30-06, 11:46 AM
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Looks like I will need furring. Was really hoping to avoid it but I want it to look good. Would a 15 ga finish nailer be sufficient to attach the strips to the joists and the panels to the strips afterwards?
#5
01-30-06, 04:19 PM
I used 3/8" beaded plywood on my front porch ceiling. It also had 2' centers but I installed 2x blocks in between the rafters for more support. Strapping would have been easier but I didn't want to lower the ceiling any because of how it meets up with the support beams. I used both a 16 gauge nailer and galvanized 4 penny common nails. After several years my ceiling has no sags.
#6
01-30-06, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr
I used 3/8" beaded plywood on my front porch ceiling. It also had 2' centers but I installed 2x blocks in between the rafters for more support. Strapping would have been easier but I didn't want to lower the ceiling any because of how it meets up with the support beams. I used both a 16 gauge nailer and galvanized 4 penny common nails. After several years my ceiling has no sags.
Did you just put a single piece of 2x on the inside of each rafter at the point where the ends of the sheets would be? Nail it in with the nailer?
#7
01-31-06, 01:16 AM
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A 15 gage nail gun is fine, just make sure to get nails long enough to bite into the joists, blocking etc.
Another tip, which also applies to drywall hanging... either start at an end and work toward the other end while nailing, or nail the middle and work your way out to each end. If you nail each end, and then work toward the center your sheet will be wavy.
I hope this helps.
Another tip, which also applies to drywall hanging... either start at an end and work toward the other end while nailing, or nail the middle and work your way out to each end. If you nail each end, and then work toward the center your sheet will be wavy.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by MudSlinger; 01-31-06 at 02:08 AM.
#8
01-31-06, 04:35 AM
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Thanks for the tip MudSlinger. I learned that one putting up the walls but a reminder is always good!
As for the nailer, I've been looking to get one but can only afford one, been torn between a framer and a finisher. This is probably the last "lots of nails" portion of my porch project but I plan lots of smaller projects down the road. Seems the 15 Ga finisher is about the best "general purpose" nailer.
Mark, just want to be sure I understand about the blocks... I'm picturing one block, maybe even 2 sandwiched together, nailed on the insides of each joist at the point where the end of the first sheet will fall. That will give me an extra 3 or 6 inches of support for what would have been an unsupported 2 feet in the middle of the sheet. Do I have that right?
Thanks again guys!
Tom
As for the nailer, I've been looking to get one but can only afford one, been torn between a framer and a finisher. This is probably the last "lots of nails" portion of my porch project but I plan lots of smaller projects down the road. Seems the 15 Ga finisher is about the best "general purpose" nailer.
Mark, just want to be sure I understand about the blocks... I'm picturing one block, maybe even 2 sandwiched together, nailed on the insides of each joist at the point where the end of the first sheet will fall. That will give me an extra 3 or 6 inches of support for what would have been an unsupported 2 feet in the middle of the sheet. Do I have that right?
Thanks again guys!
Tom
#9
01-31-06, 06:42 AM
The blocking I was reffering to were pieces of 2xs about 21" long spanning the cavity between the rafters which provided more nailing area between rafters.
If you only plan to get one nail gun I would suggest getting a finish nailer. Although it isn't much good for framing or the majority of exterior work it is mighty handy for interior projects. There are a lot of delicate pieces of wood that hand nailing would either split or knock out square. Plus you rarely have to set a nail. Framing nailers still require the use of a hammer because they will not always draw 2 pieces of lumber tight.
If you only plan to get one nail gun I would suggest getting a finish nailer. Although it isn't much good for framing or the majority of exterior work it is mighty handy for interior projects. There are a lot of delicate pieces of wood that hand nailing would either split or knock out square. Plus you rarely have to set a nail. Framing nailers still require the use of a hammer because they will not always draw 2 pieces of lumber tight.
#10
01-31-06, 11:44 AM
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#11
02-06-06, 05:53 AM
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OK, I have the blocks installed now, hoping to put up the ceiling next weekend. Its frustrating that I have such limited time to work on this, seems to drag on forever.
Looking at Georgia Pacific's website I find instructions for doing this at http://www.gp.com/build/DocumentView...elementid=4470
I plan to do the things they say such as installing perpendicular to joists but I see a problem where they specify spacing panels 1/8" apart. This is no problem at edges where I can cover the space with moulding but a space between the butt ends of the panels seems like its going to look terrible. Is there any other option or am I worrying too much about it?
I would love to use planks instead of this but cost is prohibitive.
ps- I managed to convince my wife that I really needed a framing nailer too for future projects.....
Looking at Georgia Pacific's website I find instructions for doing this at http://www.gp.com/build/DocumentView...elementid=4470
I plan to do the things they say such as installing perpendicular to joists but I see a problem where they specify spacing panels 1/8" apart. This is no problem at edges where I can cover the space with moulding but a space between the butt ends of the panels seems like its going to look terrible. Is there any other option or am I worrying too much about it?
I would love to use planks instead of this but cost is prohibitive.
ps- I managed to convince my wife that I really needed a framing nailer too for future projects.....
#12
02-06-06, 08:31 AM
I wouldn't overly worry about leaving a gap between 4x8 sheets. Although I didn't force fit my panels they are tight enough so that the factory lip covers the joint. My porch ceiling still looks as good as it did when I first installed.
The only thing I would do different is I started from the wrong end and at night with the light on a trained eye can tell where the 4' seams are when you walk out the door
Of course from the swing hanging on the other end it looks great.
BTW I too would have preffered using the planks, but us po'folks gotta do what we can
The only thing I would do different is I started from the wrong end and at night with the light on a trained eye can tell where the 4' seams are when you walk out the door
Of course from the swing hanging on the other end it looks great.BTW I too would have preffered using the planks, but us po'folks gotta do what we can
#13
02-06-06, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
I wouldn't overly worry about leaving a gap between 4x8 sheets. Although I didn't force fit my panels they are tight enough so that the factory lip covers the joint. My porch ceiling still looks as good as it did when I first installed.
The only thing I would do different is I started from the wrong end and at night with the light on a trained eye can tell where the 4' seams are when you walk out the door Of course from the swing hanging on the other end it looks great.
BTW I too would have preffered using the planks, but us po'folks gotta do what we can
The only thing I would do different is I started from the wrong end and at night with the light on a trained eye can tell where the 4' seams are when you walk out the door
Of course from the swing hanging on the other end it looks great.BTW I too would have preffered using the planks, but us po'folks gotta do what we can
so which end is best to start from, closest to door or far corner? I was thinking to start from far corner but could go the other way if it would help.
My porch area is pretty big, 12 x 11 or so, so I'll have 2 full sheets and most of another in one direction, one and a half in the other. I'm more worried about the places where panels will meet end-to-end than the tongue and goove joints.
Last edited by wreckwriter; 02-06-06 at 09:42 AM.
#14
02-06-06, 12:07 PM
The 4' joints are less noticable if they cover up the next edge. I started at the door because the framing worked out better [22.5' long] I should have started at the other end.
If all the little overlap edges are going away from your view they are less noticable. With my trained eye they are more noticable at night with the light on than anyother time.
Starting from the far corner should be best - unless you spend more time looking at it from the far corner
Since my porch is long a narrow I didn't have to deal with any butt joints. If possible it might be best to hide them with some wood strips. Maybe center the panels and add strips in both directions creating the illusion that it is supposed to be that way.
If all the little overlap edges are going away from your view they are less noticable. With my trained eye they are more noticable at night with the light on than anyother time.
Starting from the far corner should be best - unless you spend more time looking at it from the far corner
Since my porch is long a narrow I didn't have to deal with any butt joints. If possible it might be best to hide them with some wood strips. Maybe center the panels and add strips in both directions creating the illusion that it is supposed to be that way.
#15
02-09-06, 08:49 AM
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I saw somewhere that it was best to stagger the butt joints; i.e. first row: full sheet-half sheet, second row: half sheet-full sheet. The source was regarding drywall ceiling but perhaps it applies here too?
#16
02-09-06, 09:12 AM
Staggered joints are great for drywall where the crack is taped and finished to disappear, unfortunatly you don't have that luxury with plywood. Either you will have to live with the joints at the end of each piece or cover them up with trim. Thats why I suggested having the joints in the middle of the ceiling and covering them with trim.
#17
02-09-06, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
Staggered joints are great for drywall where the crack is taped and finished to disappear, unfortunatly you don't have that luxury with plywood. Either you will have to live with the joints at the end of each piece or cover them up with trim. Thats why I suggested having the joints in the middle of the ceiling and covering them with trim.
#18
02-11-06, 03:55 PM
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Just got my stuff put away. 2 out of 3 rows of the ceiling are up and solid. Looking pretty good but Mark you were right on about the moulding at the butt seam, definitely going to be needed! Will finish tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, this was a big project in totally new territory for me.
Tom
Thanks for all the help, this was a big project in totally new territory for me.
Tom
#19
02-13-06, 06:09 AM
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Ceiling is up. Came out pretty well for a first time job.
Mark, what type of molding did you use? I'm going to need to put up wall to ceiling molding on 3 walls and a strip across the middle to cover the butt joints. Not sure how to make a good transition from the center molding to the middle of the wall molding at a 90 degree angle though. I thought of using square stock, kinda like wider door-stop material. That would match the outside of the porch where I'll be using similar to cover my screen stapling. Make sense?
Mark, what type of molding did you use? I'm going to need to put up wall to ceiling molding on 3 walls and a strip across the middle to cover the butt joints. Not sure how to make a good transition from the center molding to the middle of the wall molding at a 90 degree angle though. I thought of using square stock, kinda like wider door-stop material. That would match the outside of the porch where I'll be using similar to cover my screen stapling. Make sense?
#20
02-13-06, 08:58 AM
There are many choices of trim to use. It might be best to decide on the wall/ceiling trim first and then figure out what would work best for the joints - even latice strips will work.
My porch is approx 7' x23' so I didn't have any butt joints. I used some trim I found at Lowes - kind of a cross between door stop and shoe mould. Crown mould also looks good on the perimeter. As long as the trim you use to cover the joints meets up with the wall/ceiling trim and looks good it doesn't matter what type of trim you use.
My porch is approx 7' x23' so I didn't have any butt joints. I used some trim I found at Lowes - kind of a cross between door stop and shoe mould. Crown mould also looks good on the perimeter. As long as the trim you use to cover the joints meets up with the wall/ceiling trim and looks good it doesn't matter what type of trim you use.
#21
02-13-06, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
There are many choices of trim to use. It might be best to decide on the wall/ceiling trim first and then figure out what would work best for the joints - even latice strips will work.
My porch is approx 7' x23' so I didn't have any butt joints. I used some trim I found at Lowes - kind of a cross between door stop and shoe mould. Crown mould also looks good on the perimeter. As long as the trim you use to cover the joints meets up with the wall/ceiling trim and looks good it doesn't matter what type of trim you use.
My porch is approx 7' x23' so I didn't have any butt joints. I used some trim I found at Lowes - kind of a cross between door stop and shoe mould. Crown mould also looks good on the perimeter. As long as the trim you use to cover the joints meets up with the wall/ceiling trim and looks good it doesn't matter what type of trim you use.
thanks again.
#22
02-15-06, 06:34 AM
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It seems that all trim designed for ceiling/wall joints needs to be nailed in to both. Problem is that one of my walls is concrete block. I know I could attach a furring strip but I'm trying to finish this with a minimum of hassle.
I'm thinking to use square/flat molding, basically nice lattice strips, all the way around and in the center (to cover butt joint), against the wall but attached to the ceiling only. Do you think this can look decent?
I'm thinking to use square/flat molding, basically nice lattice strips, all the way around and in the center (to cover butt joint), against the wall but attached to the ceiling only. Do you think this can look decent?
#24
02-15-06, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
Should be fine. No matter what you use for trim, once it is all up and uniform it won't be that noticable because the bead board will be what catches your eye.
#25
09-26-10, 01:25 AM
Oh My!!! I just found this and it is quite a help!!
I am getting ready to put 4x8 sheets of bead board paneling up onto my porch ceiling!! I have them stained already but not cut (if i need any).There is an exsisting T&G old time bead board there now that has seen better days. Do I need to take it down or can I just go over top of it? I have a finish nailer but should I use adhesive also?? Any insight will help. Only problem is that I will start on it in less than 4 hours>>"(
#26
09-26-10, 05:05 AM
Welcome to the forums!
I'm sure one of the carpenters will chime in later but I don't see anything wrong with going over the old T&G providing it's flat and well secured. I don't know that the pin nailer will be good enough to secure the bead board to the ceiling - how thick is the bead board? The nails should penetrate to the ceiling joists.
I'm sure one of the carpenters will chime in later but I don't see anything wrong with going over the old T&G providing it's flat and well secured. I don't know that the pin nailer will be good enough to secure the bead board to the ceiling - how thick is the bead board? The nails should penetrate to the ceiling joists.
