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Hanging Drywall Around a Heat Register

Hanging Drywall Around a Heat Register


Old 02-14-06, 05:43 AM
vtm is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 25
Hanging Drywall Around a Heat Register

Iím getting ready to hang drywall on a wall with a couple electrical boxes and a heat register. Thereís lots of good information on cutting around the electrical boxes. However, I canít seem to find anything on the heat register and I have some questions.

When the duct work and register were installed, the metal brackets for the register were screwed to the outside of the studs. (The register is mounted between two studs with the metal brackets going across both studs.) This means the brackets are not flush with the face of the stud, they are out from the stud a little (1/8Ē or so). Iím far from an expert, but, I just assumed the studs would have been notched to accommodate the brackets and make the brackets flush with the stud face. This would allow the drywall to lay flat against the entire length of wall. Mounting the drywall over the brackets, as it was suggested to me, would mean a slight bulge at the heat register.

I am looking for advice on hanging drywall around the register. Do I drywall over the brackets as is? Should I use adhesive along the metal mounting brackets? Any other tricks or tips would be GREATLY appreciated.

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Old 02-14-06, 06:25 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,842
It shouldn't be a problem hanging over top of the brackets. Since they were screwwed in place it shouldn't be a big deal to take them off and then recess them if necessarry. Most ductwork and bracing is usually light enough for nails or screws to penatrate. Don't forget the grill goes on top of the drywall.
Old 02-16-06, 04:22 AM
vtm is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 25
Hanging Drywall Around a Heat Register

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I could go either way. I'll see how the drywall sets over the top of the brackets as is. If it seems to leave a bulge, I'll recess the brackets a bit.

Last night I was pressing a smaller sheet of drywall over the area, just as a test to see how it looks. I didn't tack it up, I just wanted to see how far out it would set from the studs at the brackets and how much it would bow between the next studs and the top plate. It didn't seem to be as much -- or as visible -- as I thought it would be. But I'll check it again when I get a full sheet of drywall down there.

Thanks again!
Old 02-18-06, 06:11 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 334
If the heat register that you are refering to is just one of those sheet metal frames that sits between studs, do almost the same as you would an outlet.

Screw the sheet to the wall so it is resting lightly against the frame, (what I do) is then use a drywall saw and cut out the center of it, using the inside of the register as my guide.

Next I pull out my utility knife with a SHARP BLADE, and cut around the opening until I am just outside the register flange. When I am done, the register flange (that sort of sticks out like a junction box from the stud) fits very nicely inside the opening (like j-boxes do)...

...and everyone that sees it admires how nicely it fits before I cover the whole thing with the cover plate... at which time yours and my craftsmanship will vanish like smoke rings in the dark until someone needs to clean the ductwork.

While we're on the subject of SHARP BLADES, I can't express enough, how important it is to use sharp blades when doing drywall work. So often people buy (or find) a 99 cent utility knife to use "for this one job", and since they need to unscrew it to change the blade, they rarely do. In turn the sheetrock paper gets torn, cuts aren't any good, and frustration occurs, trimming/shaving is hard to do.

You would be far better off spending $4-$5 and getting something where the blades can be changed quickly. It doesn't have to be "super style ergonomic", or "space age technology" (which now means something newer than the fifties); but blade changes must be easy.

This inspires one to change it when they need to, and helps tremendously on your project.

I don't want to plug any products, or break any rules; so moderators, if I am crossing the line feel free to edit this post as you desire. The Stanley 10-499 utility knife is a good example of one that is simple to use, holds blades right in the handle, changes are very fast, and it fits right in the tool belt, and only costs about $5. (I think I will post this as a new topic too)

I hope this helps

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