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Making a cold room warm! Internal insulation.

Making a cold room warm! Internal insulation.

Old 02-17-06, 04:35 AM
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Question Making a cold room warm! Internal insulation.


I have a very cold bedroom that is non-cavity brick wall, second story, exposed to the elements on 3 out of the 4 walls, which are always very cold to the touch in Winter. They are solid brick, but plastered on the inside with paint directly onto the plaster - which is all sound and not rotten. There is no damp problem with the walls. The house was built in 1902.

It appears the best way to warm this room up other than having a fire on all the time, is to internally insulate using some kind of foam-backed plasterbaord. At the moment I'm thinking about glueing foam-backed board straight onto the plaster, or putting up wooden studs and screwing to to these. I have a few questions about this.

1 - Are either of these the right solution? perhaps there is a better/more effective way of insulating the room. If so, what is it?
2 - I'm worried about creating moisture problems. One of the 3 cold walls has a window and a gas fire on it, so I'd prefer to leave it alone but insulate the other 2 - would this exascerbate a moisture problem?

If anyone has knowledge of this, has done it before, or has general advice, I'd be very grateful.

Old 02-17-06, 04:56 AM
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Welcome tomccs!

I was just cruising by and noticed that if you would post where roughly you live and what the coldest temps you experience are, it would be helpfull to those that answer your question.
Also, info like ceiling insulation and a few more details about the gas heater on the wall would also help.
The more you tell us, the better your answer.
Old 02-17-06, 11:06 AM
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To me "plasterboard" suggests a UK person.

I have been in this situ before.

Your vapor barrier is going to be very important.

I suggest some studs screwed to the walls. But for your external walls a vapor barrier is a must. otherwise you will get mold growing behind your plasterboard.

It is pretty easy to do and your local DIY or builders supplier should be able to walk you through it.

But your gas fire may in fact be part of the problem , is it vented?
And I think you are going to have to bite the bullet on that window wall, otherwise the heat is just going to exit through that wall instead.

I have done this in a mass concrete home I owned and it worked wonders. But my rooms were that bit smaller. (I used a high rated thinner insulation so I could save a inch or two.)
Old 02-17-06, 03:26 PM
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we recently started using a new form of insulation called Tri-so Super 9 which comprises of multiple layers of foil, foam etc and while bein only about 10mm before compressing it this stuff is literally as soundproof and insulating as 50mm of kingspan or other foam based insulation. its worth lookin into since once u staple this stuff down ur talkin about 6mm which is a massive amount of space to not lose. not sure but the minimum purchase may be 10m of the stuff so it might not be feasible anyway.

worth anyone with insulation issues reading up on it tho'.
Old 02-17-06, 10:28 PM
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Yes, what you suggest wl work. I like the idea of furring it out then putting foam between the furring then new drywall. There are some considerations: You will have to extend electrical boxes if any. You will have to figure out how to deal with window returns. Not a problem only figure out how you want to do them. I would think that any usulating you do will help a moisture problem not make it worse. I suppose one thing is you might tighten up the room so much that you don't have adeguate air for your gas burner;it is properly vented is it not? Check building codes.
A different option is exterior insulation. It is foam applied to the masonry with a modified cementitious coating protecting it and adding aesthetics. This is called EIFS in the business and it has a bad reputation in a lot of places but over masonry it is a good way, though probably the most expensive way, to get some insulation.

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