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Is this wall is load bearing (with pics)?

Is this wall is load bearing (with pics)?

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  #1  
Old 03-19-06, 06:38 AM
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Is this wall is load bearing (with pics)?

Hi,

We're in the middle of a bathroom remodel and are trying to determine for sure whether the doorway is part of a load bearing wall. The contractor is certain it isn't but I would like other opinions.

In the hallway were the bathroom door and a small closet, we want to make it one large frame to install a pocket door. The contractor removed the vertical beam between the doors since he didn't think the wall was load bearing.

Reasons why it seems the wall could be load bearing:
- In the attic, the joists overlap on top of this wall.
- The frame itself (you can see in the pics) seems to indicate a load bearing frame- double 2x6s (with plywood sandwiched between) and crumple studs

Reasons why it might not be:
- There were no jack studs in the doorways
- the middle post (which was removed) was resting on a plywood lip between joists (see the pic), which hardly seems designed to support the weight of this post.

The house was built in the mid to late 70s. Any thoughts?

http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/top.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/left.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/right.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/whole.jpg

During demo, the base of the post:
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/base.jpg

Thanks,
Rob
 
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  #2  
Old 03-19-06, 07:20 AM
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Looks like 70's construction. The experts will be here soon, but I suspect it may be load bearing and poor construction. I would spend the extra money for the approiate beam and treat it like load bearing. I would be sheetrocking it by now and would sleep good at night.
 
  #3  
Old 03-19-06, 07:42 AM
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Is the roof stick built or a truss system? If you have trusses it is unlikely that it is load bearing.

Is it possible to post an attic pic?
 
  #4  
Old 03-19-06, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
Is the roof stick built or a truss system? If you have trusses it is unlikely that it is load bearing.

Is it possible to post an attic pic?
Thanks for the replies. I just took a few pics of the attic, above the bathroom area. Note the overlapping joists, which are right above the wall in question. The insulation was temporarily moved aside to do the electrical/vent work.

http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/attic1.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/attic2.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/attic3.jpg
http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/attic4.jpg

Thanks,
Rob
 
  #5  
Old 03-19-06, 09:00 AM
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It looks as though it is load bearing from your pics. I would build a proper header to be sure.

If the house is a "standard" mid 70's bi-level, one of the hallway walls is load bearing, the other one isn't. I have one, and the load bearing wall is 2x4, the other side of the hallway that isn't load bearing is only 2x3 framing.

Although the kicker is that the ends of each joist stop just beyond the wall framing, so that wall has to be supporting the end of the joist in some fashion.

That center post looked pretty beefy to not be holding up anything. Although the support was resting on a plywood joint, the plywood may have bracing below to add support between those two joists.

My .02. I hope this helps
 

Last edited by MudSlinger; 03-19-06 at 09:14 AM.
  #6  
Old 03-19-06, 09:09 AM
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i agree with Mudslinger
 
  #7  
Old 03-19-06, 09:17 AM
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Still hard to tell for sure but installing a header isn't that hard or expensive and I would much rather have a header I don't need than to not have one and need it A few extra $s now is a whole lot better than having to redo something later.
 
  #8  
Old 03-20-06, 06:16 AM
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Thanks for the responses, I appreciate it!

Given that this wall needs to be treated like it's load bearing, and a new header needs to be put in supported by jack studs, any thoughts on whether the right part of the frame needs to be replaced with one vertical 2x4 (i.e. where the frame ends and the HVAC return begins):

http://wavearts.com/Rob/images/right.jpg

I assume the jack stud would then go just to the left of this with the end of the new header resting on top.

And for that matter, when a new header is put in, will it be necessary to brace the ceilling during header installation (since it doesn't seem like it's been supported properly for the past 30 years anyways)?

Thanks,
Rob
 
  #9  
Old 03-20-06, 07:22 PM
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I tend to put in temp walls whenever I am dealing with something that is questionable. In my sons first year of life he spent over 5 months in the hospital on 10 different admisssions, I would hate to go back to the Emergency Room because I did something stupid, (they all know me there, so I would need a :mask: )

I think the framing forum would be the better people to direct you as to the proper way to do your project. Although I have ways that I would do it, they may be able to give you a few more solid ideas that would give you exactly what you need to know given the pocket door you want to install.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Thanks for asking questions too... we would rather read your posts here frequently, than see your name once on the evening news!
 
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