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wallpaper or paint over damaged drywall

wallpaper or paint over damaged drywall


Old 03-25-06, 09:20 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3
wallpaper or paint over damaged drywall

The drywall in my basement was covered with wood siding. I ripped the wood off so now there are a lot of nail holes in the boards but no other major damages. There was also wallpaper on the boards underneath the wood siding and it just peeled off without doing any damage, but there may be wallpaper glue left on it. The drywall boards were not taped so there are gaps in between the boards. Since I have no experience with taping/sanding/patching drywall, I would really appreciate any suggestions on what's the easiest thing to do.

I'm thinking about leaving the boards as is and putting up a thick textured wallpaper to hide the imperfections. Will this work? Or do I still need to tape/patch/sand? If I still need to tape/patch/sand, how good a job do I need to do for wallpapering? If it had to be really smooth, would it be easier to just use new boards vs. patching the existing ones? There are a LOT of nail holes but they are small holes. I have some new boards in the garage and I can use them.

The other alternative would be to get the drywall in a paintable shape and paint it using some faux techniques to hide the imperfections. Again I'm not sure if how smooth the walls must be for this.

Basically I'm looking for a solution that is
Achievable by a beginner
Low dust, minimal sanding if possible
Looks decent

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
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Old 03-26-06, 05:43 AM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 334

My opinion is that I would finish the existing drywall and then paint it. If you were to wallpaper it, you would first need to tape the joints anyway in order to have a clean job. And the cost of wallpaper would be far greater than the cost of the joint compound to fill the nail holes in the remainder of the walls

The nail holes are nothing to fill. Just remember to put the drywall knife right against the wall; so the only thing that gets the joint compound is the hole, and NOT the area around the hole. It may take two coats to fill the small nail holes as the joint compound (mud) shrinks as it dries, but it is far easier to coat them twice, than build up a mound, only to sand it all off onto the floor, and then clean it up afterwards. (Why buy something, put it on the wall, sand it all off, then throw it out! )

If the nails made a "volcano" like mound around the outside of it, you should first push the volcano into the wall using the back end of a utility knife, or by holding a ball peen hammer by the head and using the round part to GENTLY push it back in (you are just trying to get the volcano below the smooth wall surface so you can fill the hole, rather than blend the volcano back to the wall surface (that would be a real pain in the elbow)

The joints will take a little practice, although a few things to remember are as follows:

1. "Ready to use" joint compound isn't "ready to use", you must mix it up to the consistency of mayonnaise for it to go on the wall smoothly, and with minimum air bubbles.

2. When you coat a joint, it is far easier to build up thin layers than it is to apply "mounds" and then sand it off (You do not want the mud to be any thicker than about 1/6 of an inch when you are done). Your 1st coat gets the tape on the wall. (Put mud over the seam, put tape over it, and then squeeze just about all of the mud out from behind the tape.) Your 2nd coat should cover the tape (the beveled edges should be coated 10-12 inches wide, the butt joints should be coated 24 inches wide using a 10 or 12 inch knife on each side of the joint) and your 3rd coat should feather the seams into the walls, and fill any grooves that you have left from your 2nd coat.

3. Sanding should be done to smooth the edges of the mud into the wall and remove any small edges that are left, NOT remove massive mounds of dried gypsum into a pile that looks like the snowplow missed the end of your driveway and ended up putting it in your basement!

4. Buy a stainless steel joint compound pan, it will be well worth the extra cost!

I hope this helps, good luck with whatever idea you decide to pursue!

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