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Repairing Drywall - Paneling Glued On Top

Repairing Drywall - Paneling Glued On Top

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  #1  
Old 06-02-06, 02:13 AM
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Repairing Drywall - Paneling Glued On Top

I just purchased a home which was built in 1972. I am now setting my sites on remodeling the living room. Two of the walls in the living room have paneling placed over the drywall. I’ve fixed the nail holes easy enough with some lightweight spackling, but I’ve ran into a problem on the 12’ wall. It seems that they thought the paneling needed help staying up. So adhesive was used about every 1 1/2’, for a total of 8 strips of adhesive running from floor to ceiling. In taking off the paneling, I am left with strips about 2"-3” wide where the drywall paper has separated.
Does anybody have any suggestions on repairing this? I’ve thought of either cutting the paper out so it is below the level of the wall surface then spackling. But I am also considering maybe taking a 2x4 and hammer to make a “slight” indention along these strips and then filling in with spackling. Or a combination of the two.
I’ve been using DAP Fast 'n Final Spackling on the nail holes (700+) with really good results so far. Would this lightweight spackle probably be alright on this larger repair?
Again, any tips or comments would be appreciated.

Scott
 
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  #2  
Old 06-02-06, 04:02 AM
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I would be leary of using spackling on any major repairs. Whenever the drywall paper facing is removed the gypsum should be primed with a solvent based primer prior to patching. This will prevent the moisture in the mud from compromising the the ground up gypsum.

You should cut out any loose paper, prime and then skim/fill with joint compound.
 
  #3  
Old 06-02-06, 07:29 AM
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You can actually skim coat this wall with drywall compound and then texture. The result can be just like new. The photos in the link below show before and after pictures of a 8x25 wall in my house that had paneling with adhesive. It took three coats, but the result is, that you cannot tell the difference between that wall the the existing walls that had no paneling.

http://www.impulse.net/~dmaxwell/drywall.jpg

http://www.impulse.net/~dmaxwell/drywall2.jpg
 
  #4  
Old 07-09-06, 09:58 AM
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truly important part is first priming this area before the reapairwork as you will find out that the water in the compound will actually create bubbles in the area you are patching and become a major pain and headache.As well a trick I learned from a taper I worked with was to take the self stick fiberglass mesh tape and run it over the area before coating it,now this was for a smaller patch are and not strips down an entire wall.
 
  #5  
Old 08-15-06, 02:38 AM
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I had the same problem with the bubbles after a skim coat. I used the cut and fill method, but make sure when cutting out the bubbles to do so at a 90 degree angle around the entire bubble or you'll be doing it again.
 
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