Hi all
I just completed hanging the drywall in my kitchen, which has hand hewn beams. I tried to scribe the drywall as best I could but there are still some places where there are some significant gaps between the drywall and beams. What is the best way to fill the gaps (hopefully without getting too much compound on the beams). Thanks

 

I think it is somewhat difficult to get a nice finish butting sheetrock against a beam like that. However it can be done and looks pretty nice if done right. Couple of choices. Last time I came to that I just finished the beam with sheetrock but it was not very asthetically pleasing to begin with (the beam) and you probably want to keep the wood look of yours. Next, you could maybe use a low profile crown to scribe the joint. Lastly you would just have to be careful filling in the gaps with mud. Hopefully you did not butt a tapered end against it that would make it harder to finish and the beam isn't too pourous that would make getting any slopped mud hard to sand off. Good Luck!

 

You could tape the beams with wide painter's tape. Tape up to where you want the surface of the mud to come to, Try to run the knife as close to the line provided by the tape as possible, let the mud dry slightly then pull the tape. The tape might mess up the surface of the mud a little, but sanding should take care of it. Flat ceiling paint actually hides a lot, and the shadows from the beams will also help to hide any flaws. I also like the idea of a small crown, this is the style in many houses built in the early 20th and it century with exposed real or decorative beams.

 

Fast mask(tear off bead,zip bead or other regional name) would be my choice.

 

I wouldn't put up tear away bead. Sounds like you have a wavy beam and bead goes on straight. You still will see the gaps. I would prefill the gaps with quick set mud then flat tape to the beam.

 

I just had an experience with drywall gaps similar to this one in a friends house. We filled and taped w/ durabond, worked perfectly.

 

This is the method we have used in Vermont to hide gaps, for post and beam houses and exposed beams in ceilings, whereever sheetrock has to make a clean edge against exposed timber.

It is impossible to perfectly scribe the sheetrock to the shape of the beam, so there will always be some gap. Try to keep the gap to no more than 1/4 inch, and then cover it this way:

Take old-fashioned paper sheetrock joint tape, which has a scored line down the center. Cut a length of this tape the length of the gappy joint. Fold the paper tape lengthwise on its centerline. Glue ONE SIDE of this to the face of the sheetrock. Push the paper tape up against the exposed beam so the face WITHOUT the glue is against the wood surface. Be careful that there is only glue on the side against the sheetrock, because you will later cut away the side against the wood.

When the glue dries, feather the edge with compound so as to hide the tape.

When the wallboard has been painted, run a razor along the crease which is butted up agains the wood.

Presto, you have a perfect fit with the wood, no gaps.