bathroom headaches and skimcoats

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  #1  
Old 08-16-06, 10:09 AM
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Question bathroom headaches and skimcoats

I'm repainting my bathroom that had quite a bit of blistering because of a poor quality prior paint job. I gave the bathroom the sauna treatment and scraped off the paint that wasn't adhering...it was predominately over old drywall seams. I've also done some drywall repairs *but* unfortunately didn't know about bathroom-ready joint compound...so what I have at the moment is a bunch of paint scraped areas down to drywall seams/joint compound and some areas that have joint compound repairs.

Based no what I've read - I'm going clean everything with a swiffer and prime with Gardz. Then do a very fine skim coat in places that have bad sanding and repriming everything with Gardz. Then I'm going to give a coat of Perma-white on everything. To finish the job, I'm going to put another coat of Perma-white on the ceiling and two coats of Benjamin Moore Bath and Kitchen paint on the walls.

My questions...everyone keeps saying use an oil-based primer...do I need to worry about that if I'm using 2 coats of Gardz, a coat of Perma-white, and two coats of bath/kitchen paint?

Any other suggestions?...
 
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  #2  
Old 08-16-06, 10:16 AM
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Unless you have water stains to contend with you should be ok.
 
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Old 08-16-06, 10:35 AM
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no water stains, but...

I want this to be bombproof (baby on the way and I'd prefer to put the time in now rather than later).

Could I prime over the Gardz with an oil-based primer and then go over that with the BM Kitchen and Bath paint? I notice that both the PermaWhite and the BM Kitchen and Bath as well as the Gardz all say they are water-based, so I worry that I won't have enough protection against moisture.

Also, how long do I need to wait for the skim coating to dry before I start the job? I also wonder if there isn't moisture in the drywall now (from their not being a good barrier already), so should I wait for that to dry and if so what's a reasonable time frame?

Thanks for your help - ccm
 
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Old 08-16-06, 10:36 AM
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and one more...

what is a good oil-based primer? Could I used Kilz Odorless (I have a gallon already).
 
  #5  
Old 08-16-06, 10:43 AM
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Kilz used to be a top notch stain hiding primer, while it is still of the same quality there are newer primers that are better. Kilz will be fine for what you have and it can be applied over latex.

Personally I don't think you will need the kilz [or any oil primer] You shouldn't have any moisture issues with the paints you are using. Any paint can fail in a bath w/shower if there isn't proper ventilation.

Joint compound is ready for paint when it turns white - it will be darker looking while wet.
 
  #6  
Old 08-17-06, 06:13 AM
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problems problems and more problems

Okay, so I did some scraping last night. It appears that at some point, someone did some skim coating and didn't seal it and just covered it with a latex paint - hence the blistering. Problem is, I'm having a heck of a time making sure I find all of the places where they skimmed and getting all of the latex off.

What I'm doing is running the shower and seeing if I can ID places where its blistering and then scraping the hell out of it with a putty knife. Sanding just doesn't get it (tried 80 grit on a hand sander and it was slow slow going). Any tips on getting the paint off?

Also, I've read some about rolling on a skim coat with a roller and watered down lightweight. Never done that before - I was planning on just using the pre-mix and a 14 in blade and skiming the stuff on. Should I think about rolling?

Thanks for your help - I'm in day 13 of what I thought would be a 5 day project...
 
  #7  
Old 08-17-06, 06:29 AM
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Skim coating with a wide knife will be fine. I've known some pro finishers that would roll mud on while the other raked it off/smooth. I have never done it and don't really see any benifit except for in a high production setting.

Latex paint can be very hard to remove, as you noticed it doesn't sand well. I wouldn't recoment using a stripper so that pretty much makes scraping the best choice - be sure to stock up on plenty of elbow grease - bet you are running low.
 
  #8  
Old 08-18-06, 06:52 AM
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low down on Gardz

Running low on elbow grease, but I think I scraped what I needed to. Now the chore of trying to make it all look good...I had a concern and thought I would share what I found with the forum.

At the moment, my bathroom walls and ceiling are about 25% new drywall patches, 35% scraped old skim coat that was blistering with dings in the drywall paper, and 40% old existing paint (unknown type but I'm pretty sure its regular latex). Will Gardz seal all of these surfaces? I know it will seal up the porous joint compound from the patches and the scraping - but what about sticking to the non-porous old paint (latex maybe, maybe old oil enamal, maybe a patchwork of both).

So, I called Zinsser and they told me that Gardz would stick to and seal just about anything, which is cool.
 
  #9  
Old 08-18-06, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by chandlermorse
I called Zinsser and they told me that Gardz would stick to and seal just about anything, which is cool.

It will also give you an evenly sealed surface to apply your paint to. Your walls should all cover and dry evenly over the Gardz.
 
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