Old drywall and door frames


Old 03-17-07, 06:45 AM
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Old drywall and door frames

Hi. Newby here, so be gentle. I am in the middle of a rehab of our recently purchased wood frame bungalow. There is no evidence of plaster and lathe in the house and the drywall is very old. I get a lot of skepticism when I say this, but I think the drywall is original to the house, circa 1930's. My problem is that the drywall hung is 1/4 inch. Because of this, the door frames were built for that 1/4 inch drywall. I have removed the casement moldings and then the existing drywall. What is left is a little lip of the door jamb, which the drywall butts up against flush. This lip is only 1/4". I would like to hang 3/8". I don't think my molding will go back on correctly if the drywall is higher than the door jamb overhang. Anyone have any ideas that would help in this situation. All the molding has old finish on it I would like to keep.


Edit: Mods, please move to doors and windows if you feel it is more appropriate.

Last edited by hoofman; 03-17-07 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Maybe wrong category
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Old 03-17-07, 07:46 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Door Jambs

One option is to remove and reinstall the door jambs by moving them toward the room where the hinges are so that edge lines up with the new drywall. You would then need to add jamb extensions to the other edge to make it line up with the new drywall on that side of the wall.

Another option is to build, new, wider jambs to accomodate the thicker wall. This would involve mortising the jambs to mount the hinges.

A third option would be to install new prehung doors. You would have to remove the casing from the new units if you wanted to re-use your old casing.

Good luck with your project.

Last edited by Wirepuller38; 03-17-07 at 07:47 AM. Reason: Spelling correction
Old 03-17-07, 07:47 AM
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Welcome to the diy forums!

I've never seen any 1/4" drywall on anything that old but........

IMO 1/2" drywall would be better than 3/8" but that is up to you. I assume you have natural/stained woodwork, if it was painted a nice bead of caulk would fill the 1/8" gap nicely. You could rip and stain a narrow piece of wood at 3/8" thickness and install it next to the jamb and then butt the drywall to it. Then the casing will fit well over both the drywall and the added trim piece.
Old 03-17-07, 10:20 AM
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I definately think that 1/2" sheetrock would be better, and is readily available in any length you need. Benefit of using 1/2" sheetrock is that it sounds to me like you would just need to add a 1/4" extension jamb (buy screen moulding or rip something 1/4" thick on a tablesaw) and tack it on top of your existing jamb.

If you used 3/8" sheetrock you'd need an 1/8" jamb extension, which is a little hard to attach, since nails would practically shoot right through it.

I've seen early sheetrock that seemed to be 3/8" thick. It came in sheets 2' wide. I always estimated that it was from the 40's and 50's. Maybe it took that long to make it to Nebraska. LOL

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