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Crack repairs on older home walls

zonabb's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 81

03-24-07, 06:55 AM   #1  
Crack repairs on older home walls

I've hung a lot of new drywall in my home improvement life, as well as a year as a carpenter. However, what I need to do in my living room, I haven't done.

Basically, on my living wall (an exterior wall) the plaster/drywall has some floor to ceiling cracks that I want to repair before repainting. I don't want to tape and feather them way out.

I was thinking of scoring and notching about an inch and a half out on each side of the crack and laying the tape in there, which would allow me to not have to feather the entire seam, just top coat to the wall's surface.

Any other ideas, suggesstions?

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marksr's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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03-24-07, 07:04 AM   #2  
I would think notching out an 1.5" would be more trouble than taping and finishing. Also if you expose the gypsum you will need to prime it with a solvent based primer to keep the moisture in the mud from lifting the surounding paper.

If it is plaster I'd scratch out the crack and fill with durabond.

retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

bbry81's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 14

03-24-07, 07:25 AM   #3  
thats the problem with the older house i am going to more into. there are a lot of cracks along the seams of vaulted ceilings and stuff like that. what is the easiest method for that

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03-24-07, 03:40 PM   #4  

Just re apply and touch up paint as necessary. Sometimes these cracks are seasonal and come and go. If you can caulk them in minutes, then one does not mind. That way you don't get into blending texture issues with transition between wall orange peel and ceiling popcorn, or ?.

Believe it or not, I have experimented with tapeless repairs and Durobond in established walls that you don't add new 2 x 4's to or anything. I have simply added in new replacement sheetrock to a bashed in wall area and I intentionally leave maybe 3/16 gap around so the DUROBOND hard-set plaster goes into the dry (make sure it is not chaulky) edge, and it will lock in there. Months later I have seen where there is not even a hairline crack. Again, with such a method, you can quickly make the repair. No paper bulge. No featheredge to hide the paper bulge. And IF it were to hairline crack...IF...you could always fill the crack quickly and touch up paint again in minutes.

This is maybe not the correct way, but I experiment a lot and make lots of wal repairs and I look at it this way..that I can quickly repair the repair if need be.

Your choice.

Oh. Sometimes there is a phenomonen known as "truss lift" and if the ceiling sheetrock was screwed right next to the wall, rather than be allowed to float, so that the truss can lift while leaving the ceiling float in place...then that "lift" can cause some terrible seasonal cracks at the ceiling wall joints! The cause is due to the temperature/moisture differential in the truss where the rafters get colder than the joists that are 'gang nailed' onto the rafters, with the joist parts in the insulation. It causes the factory-moulded truss to bend under the temperature/moisture differential and the pull is upward.

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