Ceiling / wall replacement question

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-17-07, 05:27 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
Ceiling / wall replacement question

First I want to say that I have been reading through the multiple pages of posts the last couple of days and noticed how helpful and honest the replies have been.

I am a seasoned DIYer having owned a few houses that I have removed walls ,doorways ,redone bathrooms etc including removing doorways and installing new drywall and feathering in to match exsisting in a hallway and am now looking at a problem that I have been putting off.

My 38 yr old Colonial house in upstate new york has a familyroom behind the garage that runs fully open thru the kitchen about 11 1/2 by 36 total run.
My problem is this it looks like they put the drywall up going from one side wall to the other parallel to the joists in the familyroom portion not sure about the kitchen portion but it does have a different paint texture smooth in kitchen and sand in familyroom. The previous owners removed a single backdoor and put in a heavy metal slider which when I replaced found out they never extended the header across just used a regular 2x4 layed flat.

I have one major crack that went along one joint that I repaired about 6' long that originated from the wall above the left corner of the door there is also one from the right corner that is starting to move as well along the next joint plus I have a section patched from a bathroom problem from the upstairs.

Question is this should I rip out the exsisting ceiling and redo it running across the joists as well as redoing the wall area around the door so that the drywall joints don't end up at the ends of the door or should I rock over the ceiling? I am planning on removing the drywall above the door so I can fix the header problem. Second thing is if I pull out the ceiling will I be able to clean out the joint above the walls enough to slid the new drywall in? And last but not the least problem with this is that at one end I have a fireplace that has a full stone wall that was added on and runs right up to the ceiling so should I stop short of it and feather into the exsisting section?

I have called for estimates to have this done and so far without anyone even coming out to see they have been over $1,000 I do have a couple of ones that are in the middle of jobs that are coming to look at it for estimates.
I have priced out materials and cost for a lift and am only at a 1/3 of the price in having it done or am I crazy?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-17-07, 05:44 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,782
Welcome to the diy forums!

IMO it is always best to remove and replace drywall than it is to overlay although an overlay envolves significantly less work The advantages of removal is it gives you a chance to update/move electrical, inspect framing [and repair if needed] and add insulation if required.

After cutting the tape I wouldn't think there would be much problem in removing the rock just above the wall. Usually the nails/screws aren't within the first 1/2" I can see where it would be simplier to leave the rock around the stone fireplace and tape and finish the new to it.

Labor is usually the lion's portion of most work - that's why we like to diy
 
  #3  
Old 04-17-07, 06:48 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
Thanks

Thank you for responding! I was planning on the removal aspect especially since I am going to have to remove and replace around the door unless you think I will be ok fixing the cracks on the wall after I take care of the header
issue.
As far as the fireplace goes I believe the stone wall is far too deep for me to remove the drywall above it all the way back to the end so I was going to cut it along the joist from above for straighteness then add a 2x to the joist side and attach there for the new ceiling!
 
  #4  
Old 04-17-07, 06:56 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,782
If the drywall is in decent shape and attached well there is probably no good reason to remove it all. It is possible to just remove and replace what is needed and finish it in a manner that won't show.
 
  #5  
Old 04-17-07, 09:46 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
Are you saying not to rip out ceiling or wall drywall?
 
  #6  
Old 04-17-07, 10:04 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,782
Drywall can almost always be repaired or patched. To completely tear it out should depend on more factors than just making repairs.

If your only reason for ripping it all out is to make the header repair, I'd only rip out what's necessary for the framing work and then patch it.
 
  #7  
Old 04-17-07, 10:17 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
Thanks sorry to beat this thing to death I guess I was afraid that since the drywall was put up running along the joists versus across them that I risked having additional problems down the road.
So what would be your opnion to fix the ceiling crack that runs along the width of the ceiling after fixing the header which I believe is the cause of this?
 
  #8  
Old 04-17-07, 01:17 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 43,782
Do you mean they hung the rock with the direction of the joists instead of across them? If it looks level, I'd leave it. If it is wavy you might consider redoing it.

Cracks are best repaired using drywall tape. Paper tape will last better than the self adhesive tape 95% of the time.
 
  #9  
Old 04-17-07, 01:51 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
result of quote

Well the one guy that actually came out to look at my ceiling said much of the same things you have.
1. He believes the problem is caused by the door either not being fully attached to a header as I believe or that because the door now ends on a joint and the joint runs along the joist ( yes you were correct).
2> recommended not ripping out the whole ceiling but either repairing the crack with fiberglass tape and mud. Or cutting out a 4' wide section (2' on either side of crack and placing sister joist along the exsisting and a few cross members and putting up a new panel so the joint will away from the door end.
3. fix all the other cracks in the ceiling and some wall ones I have as well as rock above the sliding door and skim coat the whole ceiling and sand paint to match the rest of the rooms in the house.

I will be cutting out the 4' section from above and disposing it.

Ballpark $800-900
Granted I could put up the new supports but since he has to attach to it and tie to the old and garauntee it I can understand him wanting to do it.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes