Temporary support for bearing wall?

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Old 04-18-07, 12:32 AM
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Temporary support for bearing wall?

Here is a picture of the wall from the kitchen. The header needs to go from the left side of the room, to about 30 inches from the right wall. There will be a breakfast bar on the left, and an enlarged opening on the right. The roof support (pictured below) sits on the top of the top plate about 12 inches to the left of the wires that go through the door header.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/kitchenwall.jpg


This is the roof support that sits on top of the wall. There is another one that is on the other side of the house, that sits on the same wall. As far as I can see, These are the only two things that sit on the wall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/roofsupport.jpg


Another view of the top plate. Notice how the "stick framed ceiling" runs one way above the dining / living room, and changes direction over the kitchen. The kitchen is on one side of the house, and the two bedrooms are on the other. The livingroom seperates the bedrooms and the kitchen. The rafters run front to back over the bedrooms, side to side over the living room, then front to back again over the kitchen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/topplate.jpg


A general view of the attic. Shows all the supports. The support that sits on the wall in question, is the one furthest to the right. Also the one closest to the camera.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/atticview.jpg


Now my question. I want to rip out the area described above to "open" the kitchen up into the dining room / living room. I don't really know how to go about doing this, since I don't see a way to build a temporary wall to support that one roof support. The bearing wall is blocked to the rafters in a couple of places, but those cant be that strong. Am I wrong in assuming that the bearing wall does not support any of the rafters, but it only supports those two roof supports? If so, how do I go about supporting it so I can dismantle the wall, and put a glulam in for a 10'9" span.

Thanks in advance.
Blake
 
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Old 04-18-07, 01:47 AM
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In this view:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/topplate.jpg
the CJ on the left end at a ledger which is attached to a wall.

Is this the wall you are intending to remove?

In this view:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/atticview.jpg
the braces that end over the wall to be removed are purlin rafter supports.
The similar support under the ridge appears to end on a wall that is perpendicular to the wall to be removed which intersects that wall.

The diagonal "kicker" to the ridge support that appears to end adjacent to a rafter supported by the purlin's vertical brace would be the place to install another vertical brace, that ends over the wall that intersects the wall to be removed, which would carry that section until the header is installed.

Is a glulam cheaper than a 4x12 DF?
 
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Old 04-18-07, 08:06 AM
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Thank you for your reply.

You wrote:
In this view:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/topplate.jpg
the CJ on the left end at a ledger which is attached to a wall.

The CJ on the left does end at a ledger, but it is only attatched to the wall in question by the 2x4 blocks you see in the picture. In other words, the wall in question runs parrallel with two CJ's but not directly underneath either of them.

You wrote:
In this view:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/atticview.jpg
the braces that end over the wall to be removed are purlin rafter supports.
The similar support under the ridge appears to end on a wall that is perpendicular to the wall to be removed which intersects that wall.

This is what I would of thought too. But they in fact don't sit on a wall. They sit directly over my living room. I believe there is a 2x10 on edge that runs perpenicular to the CJ's that this is supported by. I would have to crawl up there and double check that.


You wrote:
The diagonal "kicker" to the ridge support that appears to end adjacent to a rafter supported by the purlin's vertical brace would be the place to install another vertical brace, that ends over the wall that intersects the wall to be removed, which would carry that section until the header is installed.


So if I understand you correctly, this is how i need to temporarly support it?


I'm not sure on the price of a DF beam, but the glulam wasn't expensive. It was around $68. And with the glulam, i get an extra inch of headroom under it.

again, thank you very much for helping me. The internet has become one of my most valuble tools.
 
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Old 04-18-07, 09:01 AM
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here is the image I forgot to post above. thanks..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/temporarysupport.jpg
 
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Old 04-20-07, 02:26 AM
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"The CJ on the left does end at a ledger, but it is only attached to the wall in question by the 2x4 blocks you see in the picture. In other words, the wall in question runs parallel with two CJ's but not directly underneath either of them."

Interesting framing.
Are the ceiling heights the same on both sides of this wall?
Even though the ceiling section that ends in a ledger appears to be short, the blocks, placed in this manner, are to act as a vertical stabilizer for the wall.
You'd be well advised to support this section of ceiling when you remove the wall, because a ledger, used in this case, is not a support element unless attached directly to the wall.

"This is what I would of thought too. But they in fact don't sit on a wall. They sit directly over my living room. I believe there is a 2x10 on edge that runs perpenicular to the CJ's that this is supported by. I would have to crawl up there and double check that."

AHAA! More light on the subject.
So, whoever framed this building, created a system of trusses which act as the roof supports.

So, forget this;
"You wrote:
In this view:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Blakelpd5/atticview.jpg
the braces that end over the wall to be removed are purlin rafter supports.
The similar support under the ridge appears to end on a wall that is perpendicular to the wall to be removed which intersects that wall."

Its based upon an erroneous assumption.

However, in light of this clarification, install temporary supports about 1' past each end of the new beam supports and than recreate the support on top of the new beam.
 
 

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