adding drywall to a older mobile home.
#1

Hello Readers.
I recently purchased a older mobile home and I can see where the previous owner has added extra insulation in parts of the living room and front bedroom. A wall the divides the living room from the front second bedroom, i want removed to make a current small living room, larger. With me so far?
There are a few "sag" marks in the ceiling and there is paneling (yucky looking at that) in the living room and front bedroom. When your doing remodeling with walls and ceilings do i start with the ceiling first, OR the walls? (first time attempting a task like this) In a mobile home what thickness of dry wall is suggested to use to help with heat cost in the winter and will be ok when i want to hang pictures and such? Do i use the compound that dries quickly or should i use the stuff that takes 24 hours to dry? Should i add new and/or extra insulation in the ceiling since the home is older and since the area will be exposed anyway?
thank you in advance for your time and any suggestions.
Regards,
MyDZire
Michigan
I recently purchased a older mobile home and I can see where the previous owner has added extra insulation in parts of the living room and front bedroom. A wall the divides the living room from the front second bedroom, i want removed to make a current small living room, larger. With me so far?
There are a few "sag" marks in the ceiling and there is paneling (yucky looking at that) in the living room and front bedroom. When your doing remodeling with walls and ceilings do i start with the ceiling first, OR the walls? (first time attempting a task like this) In a mobile home what thickness of dry wall is suggested to use to help with heat cost in the winter and will be ok when i want to hang pictures and such? Do i use the compound that dries quickly or should i use the stuff that takes 24 hours to dry? Should i add new and/or extra insulation in the ceiling since the home is older and since the area will be exposed anyway?
thank you in advance for your time and any suggestions.
Regards,
MyDZire
Michigan
#2
I'm not a pro, so I will help with what I can. There are others on here that are very knowledgable with this.
For drywall, you typically install the new ceiling first, then the walls.
I'm not familiar with a mobile homes construction, but on a convential home, and depending on ceiling joist distances, you usually install 5/8" drywall on the ceiling, and 3/8" on walls. These thicknesses are larger then "standard" which provides better sound deadening and strength. Some home will install 5/16" drywall for the walls and 1/2" on ceiling.
We would have to know your joist measurements first. Typical homes are 16" OC (center of one joist to the center of the next)
I would use the 24 hr joint compound product. Usually only contractors who are good with taping will use this "hot" stuff.
I'm sure extra insulation would hurt, but wait till someone elses chimes in.
For drywall, you typically install the new ceiling first, then the walls.
I'm not familiar with a mobile homes construction, but on a convential home, and depending on ceiling joist distances, you usually install 5/8" drywall on the ceiling, and 3/8" on walls. These thicknesses are larger then "standard" which provides better sound deadening and strength. Some home will install 5/16" drywall for the walls and 1/2" on ceiling.
We would have to know your joist measurements first. Typical homes are 16" OC (center of one joist to the center of the next)
I would use the 24 hr joint compound product. Usually only contractors who are good with taping will use this "hot" stuff.
I'm sure extra insulation would hurt, but wait till someone elses chimes in.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
Never pass up an oportunity to add insulation! MHs usually have the bare minimum when built 
Use 3/8" or 1/2" on the walls - either will be fine. The newer MHs use 1/4"
The ceiling gets a little tricky. I assume this is one of the older MHs that has a flat/crown roof. The roof trusses consist of 1x2's with scrap paneling for gussets. They should be on 16" centers. I'd be leary of using 5/8" rock because of the weight. You may want to 'beef up' the ceiling framing before hanging 1/2" I've done this by adding a 1x onto the side of each truss - this will stiffen them up. I have hung small ceilings with 3/8" without any issues [and not modifing the truss] but I'd be leary of doing so on a larger ceiling.
The only real value drywall has for insulating is stopping up any drafts. Also it is always better to hang things from a stud rather than the drywall - especially if there is any weight. You will find the exterior walls have the 2x4's notched with a 1x2 running horizontally every few feet. The interior walls might be 1x's or 2x's or any combination
While everything is open it is also a good time to inspect and update the elec wiring.
What type of mud to use is pretty much at your discretion although as Mark mentioned the setting compounds require more experience to use properly.
Installing drywall in an older MH can really make them nicer but the MH should be set up well [stable] and if the MH is ever moved the drywall will likely crack.

Use 3/8" or 1/2" on the walls - either will be fine. The newer MHs use 1/4"
The ceiling gets a little tricky. I assume this is one of the older MHs that has a flat/crown roof. The roof trusses consist of 1x2's with scrap paneling for gussets. They should be on 16" centers. I'd be leary of using 5/8" rock because of the weight. You may want to 'beef up' the ceiling framing before hanging 1/2" I've done this by adding a 1x onto the side of each truss - this will stiffen them up. I have hung small ceilings with 3/8" without any issues [and not modifing the truss] but I'd be leary of doing so on a larger ceiling.
The only real value drywall has for insulating is stopping up any drafts. Also it is always better to hang things from a stud rather than the drywall - especially if there is any weight. You will find the exterior walls have the 2x4's notched with a 1x2 running horizontally every few feet. The interior walls might be 1x's or 2x's or any combination

What type of mud to use is pretty much at your discretion although as Mark mentioned the setting compounds require more experience to use properly.
Installing drywall in an older MH can really make them nicer but the MH should be set up well [stable] and if the MH is ever moved the drywall will likely crack.
#4
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About to start a rehab on my a DW mobile home
Hi
I just bought a 1990 Redman DW mobile home. im going to rehab the thing, all of the inside,gonna remove all those strips and skim coat the walls instead of new drywall, also kitchen cabs are that vinyl covered stuff, any advice?
I just bought a 1990 Redman DW mobile home. im going to rehab the thing, all of the inside,gonna remove all those strips and skim coat the walls instead of new drywall, also kitchen cabs are that vinyl covered stuff, any advice?
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
Welcome to the forums bhuff!
The drywall in MHs is a little different from regular drywall. It is only 1/4" thick and has a vinyl print on the face instead of the finishable/paintable paper normal drywall has.
There can be adhesion issues when painting over the vinyl. it's best to apply a solvent based primer first. Since you plan to tape and mud the joints, it would be a good idea to scuff sand the vinyl first.
What are you wanting to do with the cabinets? Often MH cabinets are slightly smaller than traditional cabinets. They're usually not as stout either
I'd consider replacing them or maybe making new fronts.
The drywall in MHs is a little different from regular drywall. It is only 1/4" thick and has a vinyl print on the face instead of the finishable/paintable paper normal drywall has.
There can be adhesion issues when painting over the vinyl. it's best to apply a solvent based primer first. Since you plan to tape and mud the joints, it would be a good idea to scuff sand the vinyl first.
What are you wanting to do with the cabinets? Often MH cabinets are slightly smaller than traditional cabinets. They're usually not as stout either
